Many pinots are quite oaky which tends to manifest
attractively as spice and dark chocolate when combined
with ripe fruit.
However, after the wine has been open a few days, the
sensation of oak can change and seem coarser, a bit like
chewing a mantelpiece. The best wines, however, remain
attractive and harmonious.
Grasshopper Rock Earnscleugh Vineyard Pinot Noir
2008
$30
A bright, youthful, concentrated wine suggesting red fruits
backed by lots of spicy oak, savoury undertones and a lively,
exciting edge.
www.grasshopperrock.co.nz
Good value
Three stars (out of five)
BEST VALUE
Mitre Rocks Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008
$42
A big wine with a silky texture, ripe fruit, oodles of spicy
oak, and supple, slightly dusty tannins. Delicious,
mouthfilling and with a satisfying aftertaste.
www.mitrerocks.co.nz
Good value
Five stars (out of five)
BEST VALUE
Tarras Vineyards Central Otago Pinot Noir
2008
$35
A complex, harmonious wine hinting of plums spice and almonds
with restrained fruit hinting of cherries and dark chocolate,
spicy oak and a firm, tight structure. A blend from vineyards
at Maori Point and Chinaman's Terrace.
www.tarrasvineyards.com
Good value
Four stars
Mount Dottrel Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008
$35
The little brother of Mitre Rock, this has savoury
undertones, hints of strawberry jam, lots of
spicy oak and dark chocolate which meld to produce an
attractive wine with a slightly chewy finish.
www.mitrerocks.co.nz
Average value
Three stars
Two Paddocks Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008
$41
A lighter expression of Central pinot with hints of red
berries, a creamy spiciness and a stylish finish. Understated
and charming.
www.twopaddocks.co.nz
Below average value
Three stars
Desert Heart Central Otago Pinot Noir 2007
$45
At three years old this is beautifully fragrant, oozing rich
fruit - cherry, plums, red berries, strawberries,
supported by spicy oak, and a crisp, bright and textural
finish.
www.desertheart.co.nz
Average value
Four stars
ANOTHER GLASS
Pete's Shed The Ridge Central Otago Pinot Noir
2009
$25
A light wine grown on the McArthur Ridge vineyard near
Alexandra, this is crisp and fresh with hints of cherry plums
and spice, but with a green edginess that verges on unripe.
Better with cheese and other food than by itself.
www.yealands.com
Below average value
Two stars
Gibbston Highgate Estate Soultaker Central Otago
Pinot Noir 2008
$39
A hint of mineral underlies this light but attractive wine,
with sweet fruit, light spiciness, a hint of toasty oak
and an apparent slight sweetness on the finish.
www.gibbstonhighgate.co.nz
Below average value
Three stars
Tarras Vineyards The Canyon Central Otago Pinot Noir
2008
$45
From a vineyard on Chinaman's Terrace at Bendigo, this is a
big, rich, mouthfilling wine but with a silky texture, oodles
of ripe fruit hinting of dark cherries, lots of spicy oak and
firm, dusty tannins.
www.tarrasvineyards.com
Average value
Four stars
Tarras Vineyards The Steppes Central Otago Pinot Noir
2008
$45
A wine that seems full of contradictions - a herby, green
edge, but oodles of ripe fruit, lots of spicy toasty oak and
a firm, tannic backbone, textural and gutsy, but at present
perhaps a little lacking in charm. From a new vineyard at
Maori Point, it may come into harmony with a little more time
in the bottle.
www.tarrasvineyards.com
Below average value
Three and a half stars
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate
preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is
subjective. These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz
Two stars - simple, clean, enjoyable wine; three stars - good
wine with varietal characteristics; four stars -
very good wine with some outstanding characteristics; five
stars - outstanding wine with balance and harmony that leaves
you with a sense of wonder.
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