Starring role for vegetables

A new cookbook celebrating the variety and versatility of seasonal produce makes vegetables the star of a meal, writes Charmian Smith.

When The New Zealand Vegetable Cookbook landed on my desk I jumped on it with glee and turned immediately to the winter section.

Being a great fan of vegetables in all their wonderful variety and colour, I couldn't wait to try the soups, mashes, roasted vegetables, salads and other tempting dishes within its covers.

Those I've tried so far have been delicious.

Vegetables are undergoing a revival as more people grow them at home and buy them from growers at farmers' markets, according to Lauraine Jacobs, one of the three authors.

"The diversity of vegetables today is fabulous. When we were children there were lettuces out of the garden and carrots and potatoes, kumara, but there wasn't that whole array.

"I walk into a really good vegetable shop - and thank goodness we still have them - and you see a fantastic array of vegetables," she says in a phone interview from Auckland.

She believes growers and farmers are the unsung heroes of vegetable production, something we lose sight of when we buy veges from supermarkets.

That's why farmers' markets, where shoppers can talk to the people who grow the vegetables, have been the best thing for healthy eating, she says.

"Let's face it - you are not going to get sick eating vegetables and neither are you going to get really fat."

The recipes in the book are mostly simple, and often about arranging and combining vegetables in different ways, she explains.

One of her favourites is carrots with green and white beans and a little fresh ginger.

"You know how to cook carrots and beans but the idea of putting them with white beans is interesting and shows off their beautiful colours."

The book is arranged seasonally, with sections highlighting and giving extra information and suggestions for vegetables that are particularly good in each - asparagus in spring, tomatoes in summer, potatoes in autumn, and greens in winter.

There are also tips and variations on things like mayonnaise, granitas, or marinating vegetables.

The authors, Ginny Grant and Kathy Paterson along with Jacobs, make it clear it is not a vegetarian cookbook, although there are many recipes vegetarians and vegans will enjoy.

Rather it celebrates vegetables, she says.

"We all eat what would be considered a normal New Zealand diet - meat and three vegetables - but we wanted to make that more interesting for people."

Described by renowned US restaurateur Charlie Trotter as "the high priestess of the international wine and food scene" Jacobs is known in New Zealand for several other cookbooks and 20 years of writing in Cuisine.

However, she says she found working with two younger food writers more fun than writing a cookbook by herself.

"As a writer you just sit there and interact with your computer, or you are interacting with the stove - which is probably a bit more exciting - when testing recipes.

"Doing a book with others was great because you get a diversity. People come from their own direction and suggest something that is not in your own zone. Because everyone's food is influenced by their own travels - we've got a little bit of Asia going on, a little bit of the Middle East going on in some of the recipes."

The recipes in the book vary from hearty simple dishes such as ribollita, a Tuscan soup, a summer roasted vegetable tart, and "perfect" roast potatoes, to posh takes on old favourites such as cauliflower cheese with buffalo mozzarella and panko crumbs, and stylish dishes like shaved fennel, radish and pasta salad dressed with mint and pink peppercorns.

Buttered Brussels sprouts

In our opinion, those who hate Brussels sprouts simply haven't had them prepared properly.

They shouldn't be overcooked - that is when the objectionable sulphurous odours arise.

It is important to cook them in plenty of salted water without the saucepan lid on.

600g Brussels sprouts50g buttersea salt and freshly ground black pepper2 tablespoons chopped herbs, such as Italian parsley or chivesTrim off and discard the outer leaves of the Brussels sprouts.

Cut a small cross in the base of each sprout (this helps to ensure that the core, which takes longer to cook, will be tender).

Cook in a pot of boiling, salted water for five to 10 minutes if whole (or four minutes if cut in half), then drain well.

Melt the butter in a pan, add the sprouts and cook for a minute or two.

Season with salt and pepper and scatter the herbs over the top.

Serve immediately.

Serves 4 as a side dish

Brussels sprouts and hazelnut brown butter

The Brussels sprouts are sliced thinly, making this a quick dish to cook.

It is excellent with simple grilled meats.

600g Brussels sprouts50g butter cup water1 lemon, juicesea salt and freshly ground black pepper cup skinned toasted hazelnuts, roughly choppedTrim off and discard the outer Brussels sprouts leaves.

Cut each sprout in half and cut out the tiny core.

Thinly slice the sprouts.

In a large sauté pan melt half the butter, add the sprouts and stir and coat in the butter.

Add the water and half the lemon juice, then cook for one minute.

Meanwhile, warm a serving bowl.

Season with salt and pepper and add the remaining butter, lemon juice and the hazelnuts.

Combine well, then place in the warmed bowl to serve.

Serves 4 as a side dish