Chef's Garden: Feasting on figs

Valentine's Day chocolate tart with fresh fig ice cream. Photos by Monique Smith.
Valentine's Day chocolate tart with fresh fig ice cream. Photos by Monique Smith.
Figs are an exotic treat here in the South, where the weather makes them difficult to grow, writes Bevan Smith.

Fresh figs conjure up many memories for me. They remind me of my early childhood, growing up in Northland, where it was common to have a fig tree at the bottom of the garden. From my adventures abroad, they are a luscious reminder of travelling through southern Europe during summer.

Fig trees were everywhere and many an offering of sun-ripened fruit would be pressed into our hands by kindly strangers. We would devour them, still warm from the sun, as greedily as politeness would allow.

These days, most people in the South still regard figs as a rather exotic treat. Their very low tolerance for frost means it's hard to grow them down here and figs are hardly ever seen on our supermarket shelves.

What I have learned to do though, in the face of this dilemma, is to go online in search of the nearest grower who may ship a box direct, or you could go directly to the produce manager at your local supermarket and see if they can get them in.

Supermarkets often only supply for demand but they have a huge range of contacts and if you want something in particular, like figs, they can usually get it for you.

In Marlborough, which is where we source our figs, the season starts around mid-January and lasts for about five to six weeks before taking a breather for a month or so and resuming in March for a further two months. This growing pattern is mainly because the different varieties grown arrive in a series of flushes.

Some growers form collectives or co-operatives in order to combat supply fluctuations and they also grow a wide variety of figs to maximise their ability to continue to meet demand.

Figs do not ripen after being picked so they must be harvested ripe and packaged, ready to go. This is, in part, why they are more challenging to transport and have such a short shelf life. Even so, for me this only seems to intensify the anticipation and adds to my appreciation of this very delicate fruit.

Apart from simply tearing them open and eating them straight from the box, here are a couple of ways to serve figs and make the most of them over the next couple of months.

Figs - a celebration of summer!


Valentine's Day chocolate tart with fresh fig ice cream

Serves 10
650g 70% dark chocolate buttons
350ml milk
220g unsalted butter
250g caster sugar
3 free-range egg yolks
150g amaretti biscuits, lightly crushed
1x 28cm fluted sweet pastry case, blind baked

Place chocolate and milk into a stainless steel bowl. Heat over a large pot of simmering water, stirring until chocolate has melted.

Cream butter and sugar until pale and creamy, add egg yolks and mix well. Stir the creamed mixture into the chocolate until combined.

Pour into pastry tart base and refrigerate for an hour.

Remove tart from tart ring and place gently on a flat serving plate. Cover tart with crushed amaretti biscuits and dust with icing sugar. Slice with a very hot knife and serve with whipped cream.