Finding fashion feet in NY

An image from Duncan Chambers' graduate collection that helped secure him a place in the show. ...
An image from Duncan Chambers' graduate collection that helped secure him a place in the show. PHOTO: DYLAN PEAT
Duncan’s capsule collection ‘‘Detour’’ will be available to pre-order via Trunkist. PHOTOS:...
Duncan’s capsule collection ‘‘Detour’’ will be available to pre-order via Trunkist. PHOTOS: JONATHON FASULO/MODEL: ANTHONY HALL
Duncan’s capsule collection ‘‘Detour’’ will be available to pre-order via Trunkist. PHOTOS:...
Duncan’s capsule collection ‘‘Detour’’ will be available to pre-order via Trunkist. PHOTOS: JONATHON FASULO/MODEL: ANTHONY HALL
Duncan Chambers-Watson.
Duncan Chambers-Watson.

Amy Parsons-King
Amy Parsons-King

Duncan Chambers-Watson dipped out on reality television show Project Runway, but it has still opened doors for the Dunedin-trained fashion designer, writes Amy Parsons-King.

You're either in or you're out on United States reality television show Project Runway, and unfortunately for New Zealand contestant Duncan Chambers-Watson he was out in the first episode of season 14.

Duncan Chambers-Watson is taking advantage of his time in New York after appearing in season 14 of  hit US fashion show Project Runway.
Duncan Chambers-Watson is taking advantage of his time in New York after appearing in season 14 of hit US fashion show Project Runway.

Chambers-Watson is the second New Zealander to feature in the show, after Taranaki man Sean Kelly won season 13.

Originally from Christchurch, Chambers-Watson studied fashion design at Otago Polytechnic, graduating last year, and heard about auditions for the show through the head of the school, Margo Barton.

"Margo put the application for the show up on our class Facebook page saying "here you go guys, have a laugh'' and I thought I'd give it a go,'' Chambers-Watson said.

At the time of the auditions Chambers-Watson was working as a workroom assistant for WORLD in Auckland and submitted images of his graduate collection, as well as a video explaining why he wanted to be a contestant.

Within two days of applying, he had heard back from the show, asking how quickly he could obtain a visa, and a few days later he was on his way to the Big Apple.

"It was a crazy time. Everything happened so quickly, but luckily everyone at my job and friends and family were really supportive. It was definitely an opportunity I couldn't pass up,'' he said.

Chambers-Watson arrived in New York on June 1, 2015, on a one-year working visa and within a week of arriving he was filming the show's first episode, along side 16 other budding fashion designers from all over the globe.

For their first challenge, the contestants met the show's host, Heidi Klum, and mentor Tim Gunn in Madison Square Garden.

The pair welcomed the contestants, with Klum explaining they were standing in the most famous arena in the world, where the best of the best in sport, music and entertainment come together, before Gunn added "and you are here because you are the best of the best in fashion''.

Klum and Gunn then explained the challenge.

Fabric was strewn about the stadium and the contestants were given three minutes to select four fabrics to be used to create an outfit which would demonstrate who they were as a designer.

They were allowed one day to design and construct their garments and a mad dash ensued.

Chambers-Watson secured the coral coloured silk he had immediately set his sights on.

Despite only having designed menswear, Chambers-Watson took a risk using the silk to create a Grecian-style draped floor-length gown, receiving positive feedback from Gunn and many of the other contestants.

However, the panel of judges which included Klum, designer Zac Possen, Marie Claire creative director Nina Garcia and Project Runway Junior host Hannah Davis did not agree.

They described the dress as looking like a salmon-coloured toga, a curtain, and as though he had wrapped the bolt of fabric around his model.

Ultimately the design saw him eliminated.

Despite being disappointed at being voted off the show so early, Chambers-Watson is taking it all in his stride, determined to make the most of the opportunity of being in New York.

"It wasn't great at the time, but great things have come out of it. I have no regrets and have met some amazing people along the way. I took a risk with the dress I made, which ultimately didn't pay off, but I still think it's important to take risks as designer,'' he said.

Chambers-Watson is living with another contestant from the show in an apartment in Brooklyn and doing freelance work in the fashion industry. He plans to see out his one-year visa in the US, before heading to Europe.

"New York is amazing. It's so interesting here and you never know who you'll meet or what might happen. One day I was walking around Soho and someone commented on my shoes; the next day we were having lunch. Things just seem to happen in this city,'' he explains.

An exciting opportunity that has arisen from being in New York is that he has been invited to launch a capsule collection through online fashion retailer Trunkist.

Trunkist provides designers with the tools and resources required for the production of garments, then offers their limited edition clothing "cut to order'', which ensures no inventory waste.

Essentially clothing is not made until the consumer orders it.

Chambers-Watson's capsule collection titled "Detour'' has three pieces - a shirt, jeans and denim jacket - and is inspired by what he enjoys wearing himself.

"The collection is inspired by my move to New York and the clothes I want to wear here. A tailored but easy-to-wear outfit similar to the things I wear all the time.

"I once wore an outfit like this for weeks travelling around Europe because it just felt right. This is my re-creation of that outfit.

"Ultimately the collection is a combination of European tailored fits and Dunedin deconstruction.''

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