Sometimes wines arrive to be tasted that don't fit my general
varietal tasting categories, or are oddball releases at a
particular time of year.
Here's a real mix: a sole rosé (most are released in time for
summer), the new release of Cloudy Bay's sparkling, vintage
Pelorus, another smart bubbly from Australia, and a handful
of delicious stickies.
◊ BEST VALUE
Corbans Cottage Block Cut Cane Hawkes Bay Pinot Gris
2008
(about $32, 375ml)
There are many ancient techniques for drying grapes partially
before making sweet wine, and one, used with this wine, is to
twist or cut the stems to stop the sap flowing so the
flavours and sugars concentrate.
This fragrant pinot gris is lusciously sweet and seductively
simple, with wonderful purity of fruit hinting of grapefruit,
quince, spice and creme brulee, and finishing with a bright,
clean acidity.
- Four stars (out of five)
- Good value
www.corbans.co.nz/block.html
Pegasus Bay
Finale Noble Semillon 2007
(about $37, 375ml)
Expect something full on from Pegaus Bay's top wines.
This pungent, barrel fermented botrytised semillon is funky
with undertones of fresh guava, golden kiwi, toffee and
toasty oak.
Lusciously sweet, complex and textural, it will mellow with a
little more bottle age. Good with a rich blue cheese.
- Four stars (out of five)
- Average value
www.pegasusbay.com
Muddy Water Sugar Daddy
Riesling 2008
(about $50, 375ml)
Lusciously golden, this sweet wine suggests pure lime and
citrus with background notes of dried apricots, honey and
raisins from the botrytis.
It's concentrated and unctuously sweet, but with a lovely
purity and a clean finish.
It will develop with a few years bottle age.
- Four stars (out of five)
- Below average value
www.muddywater.co.nz
Cloudy Bay
Pelorus Vintage 2005
(about $53)
With a silver label (as opposed to the cream-labelled
non-vintage), this bubbly is delicious with hints of nuts,
lemon and freshly baked bread, a creamy mousse, crisp stylish
finish and an immensely long aftertaste.
It manages to be both taut and elegant and yet decadently
yeasty and textural.
- Five stars (out of five)
- Average value
www.cloudybay.co.nz
Brown Brothers
Patricia Brut 2006
(about $40)
From the highlands of Victoria, this Australian bubbly, a
blend of the traditional pinot noir chardonnay and pinot
meunier varieties, hints of new leather, freshly made bread,
bright stone fruit with an understated hints of nuts and a
crisp, long finish.
- Four stars (out of five)
- Average value
http://www.brownbrothers.com.au
Dolbel Hawkes Bay Rosé
2008
(about $20)
Made from merlot, this rosé is dry and savoury with a hint of
red berries and nuts. Better with food than by itself.
Available by mail order or at some cafes.
- Three stars (out of five)
- Average value
www.dolbelestate.co.nz
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