Secret of well-behaved souffles

Delicate, decorative, delicious and infused with the rich flavours of salmon and parmesan, these luxurious souffles go well with a simple salad, good bread and a glass of wine.

Souffles are magical but they have a reputation for being temperamental and difficult to make, tending to fall quickly once out of the oven and must be served immediately.

However, this recipe is the exception to the rule.

Twice-baked souffles are extremely well-behaved.

They can be baked up to 24 hours ahead of time, chilled and turned out before being baked for a second time.

They do collapse after their initial baking but once returned to the oven under a yoghurt and parmesan topping, they rise again, emerging puffed and golden from the oven.

The twice-baked salmon souffle is basically a cheese sauce with the addition of salmon and stiffly beaten egg whites folded through.

Not difficult at all.

Air bubbles in the beaten egg white expand when the souffle is put in a hot oven.

This is what makes the souffle rise.

To get the greatest volume from the egg whites, be sure bowl and beaters are completely clean and dry.

Any trace of grease or speck of yolk will prevent the whites from achieving a good volume.

When adding the beaten egg white to the sauce, try to keep as much air as possible in the mixture.

Twice-baked salmon souffles

50g butter
50g flour
half tsp dry mustard
half tsp smoked paprika
half tsp salt
300ml standard milk
4 large eggs, size 7
40g parmesan cheese, grated
200g raw skinless, boneless salmon fillet

Topping
half cup Greek yoghurt
20g parmesan cheese, grated
2 Tbsp finely chopped chives to garnish

You will need 8 x 150ml ramekins or 6x 200ml ramekins.

Alternatively, the large TexMex non-stick muffin tins work well, as do heat-resistant teacups.

Brush containers with melted butter and chill.

The souffles turn out more easily than if oil is used.

You will also need a large roasting dish and a kettle of boiling water.

Melt the butter in a medium-sized heavy-based saucepan.

Add flour, mustard, smoked paprika and salt and cook, stirring, over low heat for about a minute.

Gradually add the milk, stirring well with each addition, bring to the boil and simmer, stirring for two minutes.

Remove from the heat.

Add the egg yolks one at a time, beating vigorously with a wooden spoon after each addition.

Stir in the cheese and mix well.

Add the salmon and stir to combine.

Set the sauce aside to cool a little.

Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites until they hold stiff glossy peaks.

Stir about a quarter of the egg whites into the sauce to lighten it.

Then fold this mixture gently into the remaining egg whites using a metal spoon or rubber spatula.

Don't worry if there are a few streaks of egg white.

Spoon the mixture into the prepared souffle dishes, place them in the roasting dish and pour boiling water from the kettle into the tin to a depth of 1cm.

Place the roasting dish on a shelf in the middle of an oven preheated to 180degC.

Bake for 20-25 minutes until the souffles are golden, set and feel springy in the centre.

Do not undercook them because they are going to be turned out before being cooked again.

Remove from the roasting dish and leave to cool.

Cover with cling film and chill in the fridge until needed.

To serve: Run a knife between the edge of the souffle and the container and turn it out on to the palm of your hand.

Don't worry if they don't turn out perfectly.

You can patch them quite easily.

Place the souffle right way up on a baking tray lined with non-stick baking paper or a flat oven-proof serving platter.

Swirl a spoonful of yoghurt on to the top of each souffle and sprinkle with grated parmesan.

Bake in an oven preheated to 200degC for 15-20 minutes until well risen, puffy and golden brown.

Sprinkle with chives and serve.

The souffles do not need to be turned out for the final cooking.

Simply add the topping, cook and serve the souffles in their ramekins.

These are also delicious cold.

I cut each one into quarters and serve as nibbles with a pre-dinner drinkServes 4-6 for lunch.

- Joan Bishop