In it for the long haul

The irrepressible John Buck of Te Mata Estate in Hawkes Bay was in town last Thursday for his annual presentation of the estate's new-release wines, which was attended by about 80 wine aficionados.

Buck is one of the giants of the New Zealand wine industry, with a focused vision that saw him turn the rundown Te Mata winery from a maker of fortified and apple wines in 1974 into one of the country's most consistent fine-wine producers.

He and his family (son Nick and technical director Peter Cowley now run the business but at 67 John still can't bring himself to retire) tend not to be swayed by fashion or market trends.

Over 35 years they have moved steadily forward to their goal of making a select range of fine wines modelled on the great wines of Bordeaux in France and, more recently with syrah and viognier, of the Rhone.

Te Mata's Cape Crest (about $28) may be made from sauvignon blanc, semillon and sauvignon gris, but it's modelled on white Bordeaux, and with a hint of smoke, a taut texture and bone-dry finish, it's a far cry from the Marlborough style.

It also ages well - Buck says 10 years.

A mystery wine served at the beginning of the tasting turned out to be a particularly harmonious and intense '07 Cape Crest.

Interestingly, a third of the production of this wine is exported to Russia.

Elston Chardonnay is one of the country's finest and longest-lived.

The '08 ($33) is fragrant with elegant but understated oak supporting the fruit (stonefruit and lemon), and like previous vintages will be capable of developing complexity over 10 or 15 years if cellared well.

Zara Viognier is a new label although the vines are older than 10 years.

It's fragrant with hints of apricot and nuts, and, like the other Te Mata whites, taut and impeccably made.

Of most interest, though, was a formal tasting comparing a '98 Bullnose syrah, Awatea and Coleraine with their recently released '08 versions.

Wines of this quality become more complex with bottle age if cellared well, although mature wines may not be to everyone's taste, especially if they are used to drinking younger wines.

The Bullnose syrah 1998 was fragrant and charming with hints of mint and new leather, a richness on the palate and a firm backbone, compared with the '08 ($43) which is bright with slightly peppery fruit and a silky texture.

Likewise, the Awatea '98 (a cabernet-merlot blend) hinted of fruitcake and spice, with perhaps more harmony than the youthful '08 with its intense blackcurrant and berry fruit with firm tannins.

The highlight of the tasting was the Coleraine 1998, a cabernet-merlot blend.

It was fragrant with hints of cigar box, new leather and spice, beautifully integrated and harmonious with a long, firm, juicy finish and still has a long life ahead of it.

The '08 ($69) is concentrated with dense blackcurrant fruit, rich spice and dark chocolate, firm tannins and a long finish.

Another wine for the long haul - a mark of fine wine.