Pinot noirs are pouring on to wine shop and supermarket
shelves these days. A big 2008 vintage and more vineyards
coming into production mean more labels. Some are aiming for
igh quality and prices to match, but most seem to be treading
the middle ground - $25 to $35.
Unfortunately, I've found very little enjoyable pinot under
$20.
BEST VALUE
Two Paddocks Picnic Central Otago Pinot Noir
2008
$26
One of the better "cheaper'' labels from Central, this has
savoury undertones, earthy suggestions of bush tracks, and
ripe fruit hinting of plums and cherries. Simple but very
drinkable.
www.twopaddocks.co.nz
Good value
3 stars (out of 5)
Deep Cove Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008
$30
A new label from Wild Earth, this has inviting aromas, lots
of cherries and berries supported by masses of spicy oak, and
a tingly finish. An juicy wine that makes up in
attractiveness what it might lack in subtlety.
www.wildearthwines.co.nz
Average value
3 stars
Sacred Hill Marlborough Pinot Noir 2009
$21
Despite the edgy hints of pepper and cherry plums and the
roughness of youth, this wine has a pleasant fruit and spicy
oak on the palate and a decent aftertaste. Could be good
value if it mellows. Cellar for a few months or drink with
something hearty like a lamb stew with mash to balance the
sharpness.
www.sacredhill.co.nz
Below average value
2 stars
Desert Heart Mackenzies Run Central Otago Pinot Noir
2008
$40
A delicious wine from a vineyard tucked away beyond the end
of Felton Rd. It oozes ripe cherries and berries with nicely
balanced hints of spicy oak, has a crisp, silky texture and a
seductive, dark undertone with a lively finish.
www.desertheart.co.nz
Average value
4 stars
Hawkshead Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008
$39
Oodles of toasty oak redolent with chocolate and spice
dominate the dark berry fruit at present, but this is a
complex, textural wine with depth of flavour. I expect a few
more months will allow the flavours to harmonise a little
more. Meanwhile, a bottle for lovers of oaky wines.
www.hawksheadwine.co.nz
Below average value
3 stars
Brennan Gibbston Pinot Noir 2007
$35
At three years old, this is showing the charm that
Gibbston-grown wine can develop. It's complex, fragrant with
ripe berries and cherry plums with a lively edge and savoury
undertone hinting of bush tracks and undergrowth, all
supported by nicely balanced, spicy oak.
www.brennanwines.com
Below average value
3 stars
ANOTHER GLASS
Wild Earth Central Otago Pinot Noir 2008
$40
A spicy wine with a hint of mint, cherries and plums, with
dark underlying tones of oak and licorice, nicely integrated
with an attractive, lingering finish.
www.wildearthwines.co.nz
Average value
4 stars
Julicher Martinborough Pinot Noir 2008
$42
A rich, spicy, wine, with darker, more savoury flavours
typical of Martinborough, but attractive plums, berries and
mineral, a fleshy palate and a long, tingly finish. A
youthful wine that will develop with another year or so in
the bottle.
www.julicher.co.nz
Average value
4 stars
Spy Valley Envoy Marlborough Pinot Noir
2007
$56
A big wine, with spicy oak and hints of furniture polish
bolstering the sweet but slightly edgy fruit and crisp
finish. At present it lacks harmony, but those who prefer
bigger pinots may enjoy it.
www.spyvalley.co.nz
Below average value
4 stars
Two stars - simple, clean, enjoyable wine; three stars - good
wine with varietal characteristics; four stars - very good
wine with some outstanding characteristics; five stars -
outstanding wine with balance and harmony that leaves you
with a sense of wonder.
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate
preconceptions, all wine tasting nd evaluation is subjective.
These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz
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