Surgeon reconsiders the merits of ageing

Wine enthusiast Dick Bunton. Photo by Charmian Smith.
Wine enthusiast Dick Bunton. Photo by Charmian Smith.
It's often said New Zealand wines don't cellar well compared with those from top European, and especially French and German, producers.

Wine enthusiast, cardio-thoracic surgeon and the chairman of Rockburn, in Central Otago, Dick Bunton, says he does not cellar New Zealand wines because of that.

However, it did not stop him accumulating some old pinot noirs which he opened recently for some friends to taste. He wanted to make room in his cellar for more wine, he said.

After the tasting of 17 New Zealand pinot noirs from 1991 to 2005, he says he has changed his mind.

However, New Zealand pinots do not seem to develop in the same way as good Burgundy (French pinot noir) which change from fruit to savoury and even slightly funky flavours such as hints of forest floor and other tertiary characters.

Some of the old wines had lost their fruit and were left with acidity which was not pleasant, others were surprisingly drinkable - if there was not anything better available. Only a handful had actually developed more interest with bottle age, which, of course, is the point of cellaring wine.

One of the remarkable older wines was Kawarau Reserve Central Otago Pinot Noir 2000 from the first vineyard established on the now vine-covered Pisa Flats. It was surprisingly fresh, with warmth, texture, structure, and still some lovely fruit and unlike some of the wines, still had good balance.

Fossil Ridge Nelson Pinot Noir 2001 was still youthful and juicy although developing some attractive tertiary hints, as was Peregrine Central Otago 2001 which retained a good balance and depth of fruit.

Dog Point Marlborough Pinot Noir 2002 was spicy, rich, textural and savoury - it was hard to believe it was 10 years old, and was probably the one ageing most like a French wine.

The 2003 Central Otago vintage, coming after the much-hyped 2002, tended to be underrated, but the wines were charming from the start, so it was interesting to see how a couple had matured.

Gibbston Valley Central Otago Pinot Noir 2003 was definitely showing signs of age, but it was a graceful fading - savoury, textural, balanced and surprisingly drinkable at nine years old.

Peregrine Central Otago Pinot Noir 2003 was still youthful with hints of dried herbs, a lively edge and long aftertaste.

Ostler Caroline's Waitaki Pinot Noir 2004 was the first vintage from this vineyard near Duntroon and at six years of age was maturing nicely with mellowed undertones, hints of mineral, still bright fruit and acidity and a lingering charm.

 

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