Instead of simple, sweet fruit bombs with the heat of unbalanced alcohol on the finish, some of the more interesting New Zealand pinot gris are now balanced and textural with nutty undertones from maturation on yeast lees, and some are even barrel-fermented, giving more complexity.
BEST UNDER $20
$19.95
Three and a half stars (out of five)
Good value
Floral aromas with sweet, ripe fruit hinting of pears and roses, rich, mouth-filling and textural with a suggestion of nuts and a lively finish.
$30
Four stars
Good value
Fragrant and flavourful, this is mouth-filling and textural with hints of buttery nuts and a dryish finish. More interesting than the average pinot gris, this comes from a promising young vineyard on the slopes above Lake Waitaki.
$25
Three and a half stars
Below average value
A sweeter style of wine from John Forrest, who has developed vineyards in some of the best New Zealand regions. Sweet, almost tropical fruit with a hint of green kiwifruit, and textural with a hot, but lingering finish.
$25
Four stars
Good value
Intriguing floral aromas, suggestions of pear, quince and tropical fruit, a hint of nuttiness and a lingering, savoury aftertaste.
Well-balanced with a dryish finish.
$26
Four stars
Good value
A stylish wine, more about texture and structure than lush fruit, although the fruit, with a hint of mineral, supports the rich, oily texture, nutty undertones and the crisp, lingering finish.
$27
Four stars
Good value
A lively wine, fragrant with lovely purity of fruit, a hint of creamy nuttiness, broad, mouth-filling, and textural with a long, well-balanced finish. A stylish, complex wine.
ANOTHER GLASS
Tiki Marlborough Pinot Gris 2011 Wairau alpine valley
$25
Three and a half stars
Average value
A fresh, zesty wine with a hint of stone and tropical fruit, an underlying savoury nuttiness and tight, almost bitter finish.
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations.
