WINE REVIEWS: Riesling and Gewurztraminer

Riesling relies on a steely backbone of acidity for its structure but this needs to be balanced by fruitweight and sometimes residual sugar. Gewurztraminer, on the other hand, is more about richness andoily texture, which needs a fresh acidity for balance. As always it's the balance of flavours andstructure that are important in a good wine.

 

BEST UNDER $20

Riverby Sali's Block Marlborough Riesling 2011

$20

Three and a half stars (out of five)

Good value

An off-dry wine with hints of apple, lime and lemon and a suggestion of honey and mineral, initially sweet and mouth-filling but with a steely dry finish.

www.riverbyestate.com

 

 

Mahi Marlborough Twin Valleys Gewürztraminer 2010

$24

Four stars

Good value

Perfumed with roses and lychees, the lush, silky fruit is toned down by hints of spice and toasty caramel, and the finish is long, lively and crisp.

www.mahiwine.co.nz

 

 

Flying Sheep Hawkes Bay Gewürztraminer 2010

$23

Four stars

Good value

Perfumed with spicy roses and a hint of complexity, this oozes lychees and rich fruit with a savoury, nutty undertone. A powerful, textural wine with a long finish.

www.osawawines.co.nz

 

 

Kurow Village Waitaki Penny Gold 2011

$24

Three stars

Below average value

A blend of gewürztraminer and pinot gris, this is weighty in the mouth with a hint of golden syrup, nuts and toffee and an off-dry finish.

www.kurowwinery.co.nz

 

 

Pasquale Waitaki Valley Gewürztraminer 2011

$32

Four stars

Average value

A young wine that takes a while to reveal is charms - aromas hinting of rose petals with rich, mouth-filling fruit suggesting caramelised peaches. There's a balanced, lingering aftertaste with a nuance of buttered toast. A harmonious wine that will reward bottle age.

www.pasquale.co.nz

 

Domain Road Central Otago The Water Race Dry Riesling 2011

$27

Three and a half stars

Average value

A tight young wine at present, hinting of lime and citrus with a steely, schisty shaft of acidityon the dry finish. However, it is mouth-filling with a hint of toast and lime marmalade thataugurs will for its development - give it a couple of years to develop its full potential.

www.domainroad.co.nz

 

ANOTHER GLASS

Riverby Marlborough Dry Riesling 2011

$20

Three stars

Average value

A steely dry young wine with a hint of mineral and crisp lime and citrus, and finishing witha steely shaft of acidity. A wine that's certain to startle you out of any lethargy with its tart dryness.

www.riverbyestate.com