Riesling relies on a steely backbone of acidity for its structure but this needs to be balanced by fruitweight and sometimes residual sugar. Gewurztraminer, on the other hand, is more about richness andoily texture, which needs a fresh acidity for balance. As always it's the balance of flavours andstructure that are important in a good wine.
BEST UNDER $20
$20
Three and a half stars (out of five)
Good value
An off-dry wine with hints of apple, lime and lemon and a suggestion of honey and mineral, initially sweet and mouth-filling but with a steely dry finish.
$24
Four stars
Good value
Perfumed with roses and lychees, the lush, silky fruit is toned down by hints of spice and toasty caramel, and the finish is long, lively and crisp.
$23
Four stars
Good value
Perfumed with spicy roses and a hint of complexity, this oozes lychees and rich fruit with a savoury, nutty undertone. A powerful, textural wine with a long finish.
$24
Three stars
Below average value
A blend of gewürztraminer and pinot gris, this is weighty in the mouth with a hint of golden syrup, nuts and toffee and an off-dry finish.
$32
Four stars
Average value
A young wine that takes a while to reveal is charms - aromas hinting of rose petals with rich, mouth-filling fruit suggesting caramelised peaches. There's a balanced, lingering aftertaste with a nuance of buttered toast. A harmonious wine that will reward bottle age.
$27
Three and a half stars
Average value
A tight young wine at present, hinting of lime and citrus with a steely, schisty shaft of acidityon the dry finish. However, it is mouth-filling with a hint of toast and lime marmalade thataugurs will for its development - give it a couple of years to develop its full potential.
ANOTHER GLASS
Riverby Marlborough Dry Riesling 2011
$20
Three stars
Average value
A steely dry young wine with a hint of mineral and crisp lime and citrus, and finishing witha steely shaft of acidity. A wine that's certain to startle you out of any lethargy with its tart dryness.
