Fumé blanc is derived from a French synonym for sauvignon blanc and was introduced by Californian winemaker Robert Mondavi in the 1970s.
Fumé blanc is usually distinguished by oak treatment which can give a hint of smokiness (fumé means smoke).
Although the name, but not the style of wine, has been out of fashion for a couple of decades, Brancott Estate has introduced one recently.
BEST VALUE
$16
Three and a half stars (out of five)
Good value
Fresh, fragrant and mouth-filling with ripe green fruits, an underlying hint of mineral, a suggestion of nuttiness and a crisp, dry finish.
hahawine.com
haha 13 sb.JPG
$20
Four stars
Good value
The smoky character of this wine comes from barrel fermentation, With hints of peas, spinach and herbs, background notes of passionfruit and melon, this is mouth-filling, and concentrated with an assertive but well balanced acidity.
www.brancottestate.com
Brancot special 13 sb.JPG
$18
Three stars
Average value
A simple, fresh wine hinting of peach, pear and gooseberry with a suggestion of capsicum and a crisp finish. Not as intense as some sauvignon blancs but attractive nevertheless.
www.brancottestate.com
Brancott 13 sb.JPG
$22
Three and a half stars
Average value
Pungent with passionfruit and green fruits, this is an exuberant, fresh, fruity wine, hinting of lime and mineral with a lively, crisp, dry finish.
www.mudhouse.co.nz
Mud House 13 sb.JPG
$22
Three and a half stars
Average value
A more restrained style for those who don't enjoy the exuberance of concentrated sauvignon, this is attractive with hints of nettle and peach, possibly a little sweetness and a crisp finish.
$28
Four stars
Average value
At two years old this is mouth-filling and harmonious, with hints of freshly mown grass, peas and a light nutty smokiness from barrel fermentation. Nicely balanced and good drinking, especially with food.
www.rockburn.co.nz
Rockburn 12 sb.JPG
ANOTHER GLASS
Ti Point Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013
$23
Three stars
Below average value
Hints of lime, mineral and green fruits, this is has a little sweetness and very crisp finish.
www.tipoint.co.nz
Brancott Estate B Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2013
$33.20
Four stars
Below average value
Oozing tropical and stone fruit with capsicum, grassy hints and an underlying minerality, this is textural and intense with a long, lively finish. Delicious.
www.brancottestate.com
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations.
- charmian.smith@odt.co.nz
