Their vineyards are not just a workplace and income, but also a legacy to be handed down to their descendants.
In some cases land has been owned and farmed by a family for hundreds of years, in others for but a few generations, but the principle of long-term family ownership is strong.
I was reminded of this by the visit to Dunedin of John Buck and his youngest son Toby, of Te Mata Estate in Hawkes Bay, here to showcase their wines.
John has been an industry figurehead for more than 30 years, but with all three sons working for the business, is gradually stepping aside. In our young industry, Te Mata is one of scant few examples of wine businesses passing to the next generation.
History equates to a track record, which Te Mata clearly possesses; we can judge current releases and potential evolution in the context of what has come before.
They poured their Estate range before their flagship wines from the much-lauded 2013 vintage.
The Zara viognier, Elston chardonnay and Bullnose syrah will have few detractors , but for me there were three standout wines on the night.
Respectively, the Awatea and Coleraine cabernet blends are industry benchmarks and deserve a spot in any cellar.
These are fabulous wines that will repay you handsomely.
The surprise package was the Cape Crest sauvignon blanc, startlingly different from the classic Marlborough rendition.
A powerful and complex wine with guava to the fore, smoky, brambly, with fabulous richness and length.
A wine that redefines sauvignon blanc.
Outstanding.
Price: $13-$17
Rating: Very good
Red berries, cinnamon, a touch of char. Pure, with good flavour depth; a sweet fruit lift on the finish. Nicely balanced and not overblown. Definitely moreish. Excellent value when on special.
Price: $20-$22
Rating: Excellent
A subtle but appealing nose with lemon acid drops and spices. Powerful palate of pears, citrus, spices and honey refreshed by apple-like acidity. Lively in the mouth, lovely balance, without the alcohol burn that can mar some pinot gris.
Price: Around $95
Rating: Outstanding
Carrick's flagship bottling; released only six times in 10 years. Soaring nose with cherry and dark fruits. A study in balance: a wine of incredible richness and depth yet with great poise. A core of sweet dark fruits creates a counterpoint for the fine tannins, leading into a refined and long finish. Superb texture. This wine will delight in the cellar: I hope to be along for the ride.
Meet Mark
Mark Henderson has joined the Otago Daily Times team as our new wine columnist.
A Dunedin man, Mark has been involved in wine retail and education for more than 20 years here and in Melbourne.
He describes himself as a ''long-term wine enthusiast'' who loves the flavour varieties and differences in vintages in wines.
''You never stop learning. It's an industry full of interesting people and crosses all walks of life.''
Readers who support independent wine shops will recognise him from his time at Munslows Fine Wine, which closed in 2010, and more recently from Wine Freedom.
He has taken on the challenge of reviewing a wide range of wines for the ODT including those in the ''cheap and cheerful'' bracket.
Mark will also share his observations, tips and views on the wine industry.
