A taste of Wellie

Weta Workshop's Marly Doyle applies the finishing touches to the larger-than-life figure of...
Weta Workshop's Marly Doyle applies the finishing touches to the larger-than-life figure of Percival Fenwick. Photo by Norm Heke/Te Papa.
There is all manner of food and produce at the harbourside market.
There is all manner of food and produce at the harbourside market.
Zealandia is a little like our own Orokonui Ecosanctuary. Photo by Jeff McEwan/Capture Studios.
Zealandia is a little like our own Orokonui Ecosanctuary. Photo by Jeff McEwan/Capture Studios.
Wellington's Hummingbird has been revamped.
Wellington's Hummingbird has been revamped.
Hannah's Laneway is home to the Wellington Chocolate Company.
Hannah's Laneway is home to the Wellington Chocolate Company.

Our capital city is beamed into our homes most nights as our politicians argue and bicker, and we might visit for business or the odd concert or sports event. But what else does Wellington have to offer? Rebecca Fox finds out.

For a Dunedinite, travelling to Wellington does not take you out of your comfort zone: there are the hills, the sometimes grotty weather and plenty of historic buildings.

Add in attractions like the country's top museum, Te Papa; a growing artisanal food industry; some great cafes and restaurants and cool shopping, and you have the perfect weekend-away destination.

Some of Wellington's best-kept secrets are tucked away down lanes and side streets that most would not normally venture down, such as Leeds St and the next-door Hannah's Laneway (between Ghuznee and Dixon Sts).

Dubbed ''Little Portland'', the area is home to chocolatiers, coffee roasters, pizza bakers and soda makers who are bringing life to the former industrial area.

Leeds St Bakery is ''famous'' for its salted caramel biscuits, which are a great accompaniment to a coffee from the Red Rabbit Co, which shares its site.

To cleanse the palate, you can stop in at the Wellington Chocolate Company to see their specialty chocolate made, appreciate the artwork used on the bars' labels and just wallow in the smell of chocolate with the occasional taste test to tempt you.

Once you drag yourself away, further down the laneway you can walk up to the window of Fix and Fog peanut butter's tiny basement nuttery and a staff member will offer you a taster out of the window.

Continuing the food theme, discovering Moore Wilson Fresh in Tory St was a delight.

You could spend all day admiring the specialty food and produce, not to mention trying out the multitude of taste tests offered: customers are urged to try everything from rehydrated dried seaweed to the latest elderflower cordial.

It is a great place to pick up a bunch of flowers for friends or a snack (French cheese and baguette, anyone?) for later in the day while relaxing at your hotel.

If after all that you still felt like a nibble, you could drop in at Vicky Ha's tiny House of Dumplings in Taranaki St for a taste of her steamed or fried dumplings, handmade to her mother's recipes and accompanied by her mother's sauce.

After all that eating, albeit with some wandering between venues, a bit of exercise is advised.

A trip in Wellington's cable car up to its all-weather lookout offers a unique view of the city, even when it is pouring with rain.

From the top you can visit the adjacent botanic garden or it is possible to catch a free shuttle bus to Zealandia, Wellington's version of our own Orokonui Ecosanctuary.

Zealandia (formerly the Karori Sanctuary) has been in business for 15 years so its bush and wildlife are a bit further advanced than Orokonui's.

A walk along a track to the upper dam and back takes about two hours and gives visitors a chance to see tuatara and kiwi, plus a range of other rare and native birds.

On wet days there is a comprehensive set of interactive displays - including a moa that raises its head and bellows - films and exhibits telling the history of the sanctuary and the animals that now live there.

Another attraction that requires a bit of fortitude is a visit to Te Papa, especially seeing the new Gallipoli exhibition, highly recommended, is planned.

Waits of up to one and a-half hours are not unheard of, but it is worth it as you follow the path of the Gallipoli campaign: the over-sized statues of soldiers and a nurse are confronting and amazing in their detail.

After a fortifying cup of tea, a wander around the rest of Te Papa reignites your interest in New Zealand's history, and the Golden Days junk shop interactive presentation covering the country's history is a must see.

On a Sunday, a market operates next door to Te Papa with heaps of fresh produce and, of course, more food on offer.

The next problem visitors to Wellington are likely to have is the dilemma of where to eat and drink, as there is a multitude of options: from craft beer bars such as Little Beer Quarter (again down a lane, this time off Dixon St) or the Fork and Brewer to the established eateries like Matterhorn, Ortega's fish shack and the revamped Hummingbird and many in between.

We tried Floriditas, enjoying great service and tasty food while watching the comings and goings in Cuba St.

Many of these restaurants and bars are taking part in Wellington on a Plate in August. Some are offering special menus at affordable prices and many battling it out to create the perfect burger or cocktail and tapas match.

Once you have done all of this, there are still the shops to hit (elastic-waist pants might be in order) ... lucky finding good coffee is not hard in this city.

 The writer travelled to Wellington courtesy of Wellington Tourism and Visa Wellington on a Plate, August 14-30.

 


Must visit

• Te Papa

• Zealandia

• Moore Wilson's Fresh

• Cuba St, for art and shopping

• Little Beer Quarter

• House of Dumplings

• Wellington Chocolate Company

• Leeds St Bakery


 

 

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