High in the hills

Mueller Hut seen across the field of snow. Photos by Alina Suchanski.
Mueller Hut seen across the field of snow. Photos by Alina Suchanski.
Mueller Hut, the highest backpackers accommodation in New Zealand.
Mueller Hut, the highest backpackers accommodation in New Zealand.

The decision, on a whim, to visit Mt Cook Village, proved to be inspired, writes Alina Suchanski.

No matter what the season, the car park at Lake Pukaki on State Highway 8 is a popular stop for local and overseas tourists alike.

Few can resist the magnetism of Aoraki/Mt Cook, drawing the eye to the far end of the lake where New Zealand's highest peak dominates the surrounding mountains like a chief among his tribe.

Adding to the unreal beauty of this place is the opal blue water that owes its colour to the rock flour ground by the three glaciers - Mueller, Hooker and Tasman - feeding the lake.

Driving along the highway on a beautiful day I stop to take a photo of Aoraki across Lake Pukaki and decide, on the spur of the moment, to go to Mt Cook Village. It's been 20 years since my last visit, so I'm well overdue for another look.

I arrive at the village late in the afternoon, but still with plenty of daylight for a walk to Tasman Glacier Lake.

There was no lake at the head of the glacier last time I was there. Now the huge body of water, 8km long and 2km wide, stretches between the wall of ice terminating the frozen mass and the Tasman River that comes out at the opposite end.

Flowing south along the eastern verge of New Zealand's two highest mountains, Mount Tasman and Aoraki/Mount Cook, the 27km long Tasman Glacier is New Zealand's longest.

However, sharing the fate of all New Zealand glaciers, it is retreating at an alarming rate of 800m per year and could be gone in 10 20 years, making the Tasman Glacier Lake even bigger (what global warming?).

I follow the track from the Blue Lakes shelter car park to the top of the moraine wall for a splendid view of the lake.

Two yellow dots in the distance, barely visible against the terminal face of the glacier, turn out to be cruise boats that run regular trips on the lake.

I walk around to where the glacial melt releases its steel coloured water into the Tasman River. On reaching Lake Pukaki, this milky steel grey, by pure magic, turns into the most amazing pale opal blue.

Next morning I'm one of the first few reporting at the Department of Conservation office to pick up tickets for Mueller Hut. Leaving my car at the White Horse Hill camping ground, I'm on my way to tackle the 1000m climb.

The first half of the track is a series of steps leading to Sealy Tarns at 1250m. It's steep and feels like climbing a very long, twisted ladder, but with each step the scenery becomes grander, as first the Hooker, then the Mueller Glacier comes into view.

The vegetation is alpine scrub stunted by harsh weather conditions and elevation. At Sealy Tarns the bush recedes and suddenly I am exposed to the cold wind I was previously unaware of.

The track becomes an alpine route marked with orange triangles and cairns. Strong 50kmh wind, with gusts that almost knock me off my feet, attempts to cool me down, but the steep, steady climb keeps the heart thumping and my body temperature up.

Large patches of snow appear and I see some people sliding down one on their backsides. A climber with an ice axe is running down a patch of snow using a scree running technique. I make a mental note to try this on my way down.

Walking through the snow I'm grateful to all the people whose footprints I am able to follow, as it makes it a lot easier than walking through untracked snow. Leaving my walking poles behind was a mistake.

They would have been handy on this knee racking climb. On reaching the ridge the track becomes flatter, though almost entirely covered with snow.

I gasp at the magnificent view of the Mueller Glacier sweeping down the valley on my right and the stunning ice shelf on Mount Sefton next to it. Although clouds obscure New Zealand's highest peaks, I'm happy with what I can see.

I'm tired, but when a bright red hut the size of a matchbox appears across a field of white, my body finds energy that propels me towards it with new vigour.

Dubbed the highest backpacker accommodation in New Zealand, Mueller Hut (which sleeps 28) is located at 1800m and offers 360 degree views of amazing alpine scenery.

It's the fifth incarnation of the hut, built in Gore, then dismantled and shipped to its location where it was officially opened in July 2003 by Sir Edmund Hillary. The hut, the glacier and the valley are all named after inveterate German explorer Baron Ferdinand von Mueller, who moved to Australia at the age of 22.

After three and a half hours of walking I find welcome shelter at the hut. Although there is no wood burner, insulation and double glazing keep the howling wind out and the natural solar heat in. There are a few people in the hut, but I'm too exhausted to socialise. After a quick cup of tea I lie down for a wee rest and wake up three hours later, at dinner time.

The next day I retrace my steps down the many zig zags in thick fog and limited visibility, feeling smug about my impromptu decision to visit this amazing place at the foot of Aoraki, the Cloud Piercer.

Alina Suchanski is a Te Anau based travel writer.


Getting there

• Access: State Highway 8 will take you to Lake Pukaki car park. The turn off to Mt Cook Village is about 1km south of the car park. It is well signposted and it takes about 45 minutes to get to Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park.

• Grade: Medium to hard (depending on weather conditions)Distance: 1000 vertical metres

• Time: 3 hours from White Horse Hill car park to Mueller Hut

• Accommodation: Mueller Hut (28 bunks)

- www.doc.govt.nz


 

 

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