Entering the Arctic Circle in Norway.
There's something decidedly unnerving about being in a
country where the sun doesn't set.
Sure, for the first few days my imagination ran wild with the
prospect of an endless summer, but after 15 days in
Scandinavia my body clock decided it was going on strike
indefinitely.
So why did this lad from Geraldine decide upon Scandinavia as
the destination of choice? Two reasons, actually; I was keen
to explore beyond the traditional boundaries of Western
Europe, and my brother's Finnish girlfriend had filled my
head with tales of an exotic land (even more exotic than
Christchurch) where Vikings once roamed freely and a lack of
cellphone reception was unheard-of.
And so I flew in to the Norwegian capital of Oslo.
My tramping pack of winter clothes was rendered useless as I
stepped off the plane into bright sunshine and 22degC, much
to my surprise.
Oslo had a few surprises in store for me, as my carefully
prepared euros didn't serve me too well in a country which
deals exclusively in Norwegian kroner: once again a reminder
that planning is everything when it comes to travel.
And boy did I need those kroner - a pint of local tap beer on
the waterfront in Oslo will set you back NZ$21.50.
Needless to say, none of the boys was overly keen to shout a
round in that neck of the woods!Despite the seemingly
exorbitant prices everywhere, the locals assured me it was a
great place to live and work.
Oslo was alive and kicking in early June as the population
emerged from six months in the winter dark, which did not
sound overly pleasant. (There are severe alcohol restrictions
in place in Norway to prevent alcoholism in the winter
months).
There is a strong sense of culture in the capital, as we
visited places such as the Edvard Munch Museum (home of the
famous painting The Scream), the originally named Viking Ship
Museum (you'll never guess what's in there), and the Nobel
Peace Centre, all of which were conveniently close to the
town centre.
After the cultural and financial shock of Oslo, our tour
headed towards the north of Norway, and we spent a glorious
morning in Lillehammer.
Famous for hosting the 1994 Winter Olympics, Lillehammer is a
small town still clinging on to the event as best it can.
It was wonderful to experience Olympic locations that had
captivated the 8-year-old me, and when the opportunity to go
bobsleighing on an Olympic track arose I jumped at the idea,
without a second thought.
I now have delightful memories of my spine crushing into my
tailbone under 3Gs of pressure at 120kmh, screaming like a
little girl the whole way down.
When we reached the base of the track and had recovered
sufficiently, the driver turned around and politely informed
us that in Olympic events they can reach over 200kmh, and
that my future as an Olympic athlete was decidedly doubtful.
At NZ$40 a run, this activity was a steal, especially
considering the added value of three hours of Cool Runnings
impersonations that took over the bus.
As we headed further north up the Norwegian coast, I felt as
if we were driving into the centre of a New Zealand postcard.
The beautiful landscapes, spectacular fjords and exciting
wildlife, while mesmerising, provided more than a touch of
homesickness.
The mountainside village of Andalsnes was a real standout in
a country full of wonderful overnight stays, and it was in
Andalsnes that the sunlight started to become a major factor
in sleep deprivation.
We were able to take a six-hour hike that left camp just
after 8pm, watch a beautiful sunset at around 11.30pm, and
still clamber down a reasonably treacherous mountain with
plenty of natural light to arrive home at 2am.
To put it in perspective, midnight in the Norwegian spring is
similar to 7pm in an Otago summer - great for all-night
adventures, but not so flash for a healthy eight-hour kip.
Norway feels undiscovered, with a minimal population yet
excellent landscapes and scenery that leave you constantly
wondering what's around the next corner.
After more than a week on the road, we arrived in Nordkapp,
the top point of Norway and also Europe.
Nordkapp (North Cape) is famous for its midnight sun: it is
the one point in Europe where the sun doesn't disappear below
the horizon at night.
While the midnight sun visitors' centre on the cliffs at
Nordkapp was one of the most blatant tourist traps I
witnessed in all of Europe, its location was ideal and the
experience was worth every cent.
If you are a big fan of Christmas animals, then Norway will
not disappoint.
Reindeer were as prevalent in northern Norway as dairy farms
are on the Canterbury plains.
In fact, they had an unfortunately similar road-sense to
possums, and it was not uncommon to hear the slamming of
brakes and the tooting of horns as Prancer and Rudolph
skittered across the road.
From the freezing highs of Nordkapp (three thermals, two
T-shirts, two jerseys, one jacket and I still caught a cold),
we headed across and down into Finland.
The trip from the northern border of Finland right down to
Helsinki in the south can be summarised into two sights:
forests and moose warning signs.
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