Tour de food and fun

Great food, great chateaux, great fun ... playwright Roger Hall cycles through the Loire Valley.

It's hard not to love France.

It has the same population as England, but is twice the size, so there is a great deal of countryside.

The French not only love their own country (which is why so few leave it to travel abroad), in particular they love the rural part of it and the way of life there.

It's easy to understand why.

The scenery is magic: wheat fields sprinkled with poppies, no ugly wire fences, huge areas of quiet and cool forests, swathes of lavender, vineyards winding over hillsides, unspoiled villages and small towns that delight the eye.

Over the years, my wife and I have been lucky enough to visit France several times and while we, along with the rest of the world, love Paris, the best holidays have been cycling in such areas as Provence, Dordogne, Alsace and Burgundy. They are the best holidays anywhere.

As with previous trips, we went with Cycling for Softies, who tailor each tour to the time you have available (anything from three to 14 days) and with the level of difficulty you can cope with. We're in our 70s now (active rather than especially fit) and can manage the terrain with little trouble (admittedly, we usually push our bikes up hills). Softies book your hotels, provide you with bikes and maps and leave you to it.

But what they are famous for is the restaurants they choose for you each night and it's a great comfort to know that at the end of each day there will be a superb meal as a reward.

For our latest trip, we chose the Loire, an area famous not only for its rivers and scenery but mostly for its chateaux.

Our base hotel (where we picked up our bikes) was Chinon, which of course has a chateau, mostly in disrepair but worth visiting because of the displays within the remaining rooms, and because of the views from its strategic position overlooking the river.

It was a favourite of the French Court who visited regularly, and Chinon retains a medieval feel to it, with many old buildings and narrow streets, though slightly bizarrely, it has installed a free lift for visitors to avoid the steep, narrow climb to get to the castle.

From Chinon to Montsoreau, and we reached our charming hotel overlooking the river by noon. We bought quiche and rolls and ate them by the river and then spent the afternoon at one of the highlights of the trip, the 12th-century abbey at Fontevraud. A Unesco World Heritage site, the abbey is both beautiful and steeped in history.

Eleanor of Aquitaine is buried there with her husband, Henry II, and their beautiful tomb effigies lie side by side within the abbey walls.

The next day we biked through woods, much of the time alongside the river, to Languis.

The hotel was just a bit ramshackle and lacking some essential facilities.

"Have you Why-fie?" I asked. There was a pause before they knew what I was asking for.

"Ah! Wee-fee?"

"Yes."

"Non."

No matter. There was, of course, a chateau nearby to explore. There always was, so many in fact, that some discretion is needed. Thanks to the French Revolution anything of worth or merit inside these aristocratic buildings was plundered, so now the interiors are, "at best", refurnished "in the style of" (say) the 15th century.

It's the exteriors that are enchanting. Chenonceau, built over a river, is the most picturesque of them all (though some would vote for Chateau d'Ussee, the so-called Sleeping Beauty castle, which we saw but did not go inside).

Exteriors are so important that at Chenonceau, where one of the towers was being repaired, the construction work was covered by netting upon which was painted a likeness of the tower it was hiding. So skilfully was it done, that quite possibly many of the visitors might not have noticed repairs were taking place.

At Villandry we'd been advised to skip the chateau itself and stick to the gardens, some of the greatest one is ever likely to see (assuming you like formal Renaissance ones compared to the English landscape ones).

It's a kitchen garden to end all kitchen gardens, but much more: numerous parterres bordered by low, clipped box hedges; gazebos, fountains, herbs , mazes, topiary and terraces.

But, of course, there were places to visit other than chateaux. At Amboise, a splendid riverside town where we stayed two nights in a sumptuous hotel with large bedrooms, and a terrace for drinks under the hot sun, there was Clos Luce. This was the manor where Leonardo da Vinci spent his final years at the invitation of one of his fans, King Louis XII, who gave him not only the manor but his friendship as well. Inside the manor is a collection of models of Leonardo's varied and astonishing inventions.

Seven kilometres from Azay Le Rideau (another stopover) is a Balzac museum containing, as you would expect, many copies of his books, but also the splendid original drawings from one of his novels recently published as a graphic book.

France knows how to look after cyclists. Cars slow down and give you a wide berth, and there are many Velo paths, which steer one away from almost all traffic and take you along quiet routes. During the weekend, these cycle paths are used by groups of cyclists of all ages, always calling out a cheery "bonjour" as you pass. (And don't ever let anyone tell you the French are unfriendly. Three times when we were lost, French people went out of their way to help.)

A cliche, I know, but the French really do know how dine. During our 12-night stay, only about two meals lasted less than two and a-half hours.

First there was the amuse-bouche, that exquisite little introduction to the meal - a miniature pot of langoustine, for example, or snails in garlic.

Then the entree: oysters perhaps, terrine, slices of aubergines interleaved with goat's cheese or, often, smoked salmon with white asparagus.

Mains: fillet of cod steamed in a bag with vegetables and mango; sole exquisitely cooked; veal; pork fillets.

Then the sound that always delights my ears, the rattle of the approaching cheese trolley: a selection of at least a dozen varieties from which one can choose three or four pieces.

The desserts, visual symphonies: coulis, creme brulee, sauteed strawberries and one double-layered triumph (blackberry, strawberries, raspberries nestled in meringues on two platforms of crust-thin pastry).

And the best thing of all: despite all the courses we ate each night, thanks to the cycling, at the end of the holiday neither of us had put on weight.

It's enough to make you start planning all over again.


If you go
Cycling for Softies does packages in the Loire from three nights to 14 nights. Three nights staying at the Chinon costs $1141. Five nights Chinon and Azay le Rideau (or Montsoreau), $1902. Seven nights Chinon, Montsoreau, Azay le Rideau, or Chinon, Azay le Rideau, Noyant de Touraine chateau, $2664. Prices include a double or twin room each night, a reserved table in a first-class restaurant each evening, breakfast, bicycle hire (including panniers with room for a bottle of wine and a baguette). For more information see www.cycling-for-softies.co.uk.

Roger Hall's new play A Short Cut to Happiness opens at The Fortune Theatre on November 19.