Valley of the vineyards

Vineyards fill the Swan Valley, just a 25-minute drive from Perth, in Western Australia. Photo...
Vineyards fill the Swan Valley, just a 25-minute drive from Perth, in Western Australia. Photo from Tourism Western Australia.
Wine glasses are ready for pourings at Sandalford Winery, in the Swan Valley, Western Australia....
Wine glasses are ready for pourings at Sandalford Winery, in the Swan Valley, Western Australia. Photo from Swan Valley Visitor Centre

Pam Jones tours the Swan Valley in Western Australia and finds out why the wine region is such a popular destination.

There are more than 40 vineyards in the wine-soaked Swan Valley and the same number of restaurants and cafes.

Add to that breweries, distilleries and boutique bars and you'll need to draw straws to pick the sober driver.

But the food, art galleries and shopping are enough to keep the teetotaller happy too, or you can take a tour so everyone can indulge.

Just 25 minutes' drive from Perth, the region is an easy day trip from Western Australia's capital or, even better, stay overnight and turn it into a two-day trip.

A 32km loop takes visitors on the Swan Valley Food and Wine Trail, passing more than 150 wineries, eateries, shops and roadside stalls.

The oldest wine region in Western Australia and the second oldest (after the Hunter Valley) in Australia, the Swan Valley celebrates its 180th anniversary of winemaking this year.

The first commercial vintage was released in 1834 by Thomas Waters, of Olive Farm, and the region has many third- and fourth-generation family-owned wineries.

Most grapes are still hand-picked and the warm climate produces exceptional wine including chenin blanc, verdelho, shiraz, rosé and petit verdot; the region is also known for its fortified wines.

We enter the Swan Valley through the historic town of Guildford, which is full of antique stores and character pubs.

From there we drive to the dream-like Margaret River Chocolate Company, a Willy Wonka-type experience where chocolates are piled for purchase and tastings.

We enjoy delicacies such as macadamia clusters, salted caramel chocolates, fine champagne ganache in dark chocolate and strawberry cream ganache in white chocolate, while watching the artisan chocolatiers at work through a large viewing window.

Chocolate is even used in other non-edible items for sale, such as white chocolate, chocolate-orange and after-dinner mint massage oils, and chocolate bath salts.

Nearby we experience another culinary sensation sampling the generous tastings at Providore.

The gourmet store showcases a huge array of its innovative preserves, oils, vinegars, sauces and dry goods in a delicious setting.

We discover plum and port jam, blood orange and vanilla-infused virgin olive oil, Reims champagne vinegar and a lime and vanilla verjuice syrup, before leaving with a thick and chunky organic fig and cinnamon chutney which pairs perfectly with some Western Australian cheese that evening.

Lunch is another thing of beauty at Sandalford Winery, where food and wine are treated with the respect typical of other producers and suppliers in the Swan Valley.

Confit of duck and a black Angus beef fillet are prefaced by Mediterranean-themed antipasto and accompanied by delicately cooked vegetables. Our verdelho and shiraz wines go perfectly with each course, and a trio of wine-flavoured sorbets completes the experience.

We visit several other venues after lunch and find nougat, nuts, cheese, honey and more wine, while vowing to visit such Swan Valley icons as Mash Brewery and Brasserie, the Feral Brewing Company, Oggies Ice Creamery and Yahava Koffeeworks and some more vineyards and restaurants next time.

We're also intrigued by the discovery that various venues offer masterclasses.

You can be a ''winemaker for a day'' at Sandalford, learn how to make cheese at The Cheese Barrel, do an asparagus masterclass (yes, really) at Edgecombe Brothers, and a wine and chocolate pairing class hosted by Providore and the Margaret River Chocolate Company.

It seems as good a reason to return to the Swan Valley as any.

Wine and chocolate together?Now that's genius.

Pam Jones travelled with the assistance of Tourism Western Australia, Air New Zealand and Britz Campervans.

 

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