Just us or the bus

Travelling on your own gives you more scope to avoid the crowds at Turkey's headline sights like Ephesus, with its grand library frontage and links to New Testament apostle Paul. Photo by Philip somerville.
Travelling on your own gives you more scope to avoid the crowds at Turkey's headline sights like Ephesus, with its grand library frontage and links to New Testament apostle Paul. Photo by Philip somerville.
Should you join organised tours when travelling overseas? Otago Daily Times editorial manager Philip Somerville, just back from Turkey, discusses the pro and cons.

I've seldom seen my wife, Shona, as disconcerted as when I suddenly changed our holiday arrangements.

It was the evening of our fourth day in Istanbul and I wanted to visit one of the local travel agents to consider an organised tour for part of our time in Turkey.

We were due the next morning to find our way to the massive Istanbul intercity bus station to begin independent travel to Gallipoli and onwards.

Yet, here I was, with no warning and little time to make fresh arrangements, overturning our plans.

It is my job, in our family division of labour, to research and arrange travel, and I had been busy roughly working out how many days we might spend in various places and how we might get around.

We had our basic destinations sorted and I had decided the northeast towards Armenia and Georgia was too ambitious because Turkey is a lot bigger than most people realise, about seven times the area of New Zealand.

But I began to wonder, after enthusiastic recommendations from our hotel receptionist, if we might travel to the southeast near the Syrian border, the heart of Kurd and Arab Turkey.

I calculated that on our own we'd take a full day to get to the town near Gallipoli and then, without transport, would need a tour visit to the various battlegrounds and cemeteries.

Travelling to Troy by ourselves would be time-consuming and a little tricky, and the days would soon disappear as we waited for and switched buses, searched out accommodation and oriented ourselves to and around subsequent cities and sites.

All of a sudden, three more days were available thanks to the speed of tours, with another two saved by flying back from the southeast rather than enduring marathon bus trips. That would still leave most of our trip on our own at our own pace.

Luckily, businesses often stay open late because it was about 6pm before we returned from a day on the Bosphorus ferry and called in at "Hassle Free" tours.

The agent, of course, pushed for as extensive a trip as possible.

We knocked that back but did extend well beyond Gallipoli.

Afrodisias, which is difficult to reach to by public bus, is notable not just for constructions such as this 30,000-seat stadium, but also for the feeling of just how big and impressive former Roman cities can be. While our tour was far too rushed, I found time to scamper down the tunnel to the circle where gladiators once fought and admire the adjacent chariot-racing circuit. Photo by Philip Somerville.
Afrodisias, which is difficult to reach to by public bus, is notable not just for constructions such as this 30,000-seat stadium, but also for the feeling of just how big and impressive former Roman cities can be. While our tour was far too rushed, I found time to scamper down the tunnel to the circle where gladiators once fought and admire the adjacent chariot-racing circuit. Photo by Philip Somerville.
Shona's horror at my out-of-character and apparently precipitous actions proved effective for forcing the agent to trim the prices, although the bouncing between euros and Turkish lira made our heads spin.

Fearful of being ripped off, Shona also insisted we go outside to evaluate these new proposals before agreeing to anything, only for the agent to follow us.

By nature Shona is not assertive, but I suspect the common Turkish male views of different roles for Western women would have been reinforced by her contribution.