Into the blue in Patagonia

The glaciers of Patagonia are huge blue iceflows. A. John V. Hart takes a close look.

"A million-dollar view."

Such a phrase is used frequently and with much exaggeration in accommodation and real estate circles.

But how else to describe the outlook from the Lake Grey Hotel in South America's Chilean Patagonia?

Providing comfortable shelter from the extreme elements, it is nestled on the lake's southern outlet in the heart of Torres del Paine National Park.

And there in the foreground, just a short stroll away, is a huge beached iceberg.

The Grey Glacier can be seen clearly in the distance, while all around rise towering mountains, enhanced by a fresh dusting of snow on their serrated peaks and ridges.

The latter remind me of both a cathedral facade and the stylised illustrations in a child's storybook.

The first week of a month-long "Patagonia Walkabout" trip had already provided plenty of highlights.

These included, upon awaking, my first view of the snowy Andes Mountains as we winged from Auckland to stylish and tango-mad Buenos Aires.

We then traversed three alpine lakes by boat, in unusually fine weather, on our way from Argentina to Chile.

There, we explored the fascinating craft markets and seafood restaurants, sampling delicious king crab dishes.

Another highlight was being on the better side of the plane to view Chaiten's erupting volcano, during our flight from Puerto Montt to gale-blasted Punta Arenas.

Over the years, I had been fascinated by glimpses of Patagonia on television: scenes from Flight of the Condor and Wild Chile.

More recently, the Wanaka Mountain Film Festivals had introduced me to expeditions scaling Los Cuernos (the horns) of both Torres del Paine and Mt Fitzroy national parks.

So there I was at Lago Grey, as it is known in Latin American Spanish, with a group of 11 keen New Zealand walkers led by Latin Link's outstanding female guide, Berni, from Buenos Aires.

After a quick lunch, we hiked our way to the wharf for our four-hour excursion to the glacier.

Because of the squally conditions, the lake was very rough, so we were ferried by rubber dinghies to a larger vessel anchored further out.

From Puerto Natales I had already visited the plunging Balmaceda and Serrano glaciers, but as we neared the Grey, it loomed much larger and broader, with its two main prongs separated by a rocky outcrop.

The boat made for the eastern side and from there we drifted westward over a period of two hours.

We were dwarfed and spellbound by the ice cliffs about to end their centuries-old journey by calving icebergs into the lake.

There was also ample time to study the lofty ramparts of the Paine Grande massif which rises about 2000m above the eastern shores.

Then to the north, the granite arete, Shark's Fin, stood in dramatic isolation.

The Grey Glacier, ignited by the atmospheric conditions, was a striking photographic subject.

As the squally westerly eased and the dark threatening clouds parted, the late warm back-lighting rim lit the icy towers of the glacier's face.

They presented a tonal kaleidoscope ranging from deep blues to dazzling white.

Hundreds of compositions were created by the rapidly changing interaction between the foreground and background due to the boat's movement.

Indeed, Glacier Grey won my heart and claimed a significant portion of my 3600 digital memories of Patagonia.

- John Hart is a keen photographer who lives in Ocean View.

If you go
- Travel Collective Group (based in Cromwell) can advise on a range of small-group tours in South America, from Biking the Andes through to the Patagonia Walkabout.

- A limited number of permits are available on some of the tours and it is recommended bookings be made several months in advance to avoid disappointment.

- Tour prices cost from $NZ4990 for 19 days' Incas & Llamas, to $10,885 for the 34-day South America Discovery.

- Costs exclude return flights from New Zealand and are subject to change.

- Refer to www.travelcollectivegroup.comPatagonia Walkabout now begins in Santiago and ends in Buenos Aires.

- More time is now spent in Torres del Paine National Park.

- An extension to Iguazu Falls is also available.

- More detailed information of the itinerary can be found on www.latinlink.co.nz