Island journey back to the past

With 171 countries ticked off, sports reporter Alistair McMurran set off last year to add a few more to his list. Today, he visits the Seychelles.

The Seychelles has that magic quality from which myths are made.

It has become a tourist Mecca popular with Europeans and South Africans.

It only has a population of 84,000, but the country owns three planes and four ships.

There was no sign of poverty, housing was of a high standard and there were a few luxury yachts in the harbour.

There is no unemployment.

"There are jobs for those who want to work," Hervee, our guide, said.

"We have to bring in labour from India on two-year contracts to do all the work that needs to be done.

"The Government built a Hindu temple for the Indian workers, who are very religious."

Taxes are low in the Seychelles for ordinary people, but businesses and the tourists pay.

"We are like a family here and everyone knows each other," Hervee said.

"There is free medical treatment.

"If someone needs a big operation, they are flown to India or Singapore and the Government pays for it."

The Seychelles gained independence from Britain in 1976.

"The British didn't treat us well," Hervee said.

"We had very poor houses and many were made from palm leaves.

"They took all the resources out of the country."

In the mid-1850s, Britain and France had abolished slavery and sent ships to stop Arab traders who were still dealing in slaves.

A thousand slaves were intercepted and set free on the Seychelles in 1853.

It is a country where diverse ethnic groups joined together as one people.

There were also immigrants from India and China.

Hervee's family tree has several strains attached to it from these sources.

Hervee grew up on the offshore Praslin Island and had a year away as a steward on the Seychelles airline.

But he found it too cold when he flew to Europe, especially in Manchester, which is a sister city of Victoria in the Seychelles.

"I tried living overseas, but I always wanted to come back to my island," he said.

Hervee's parents came from big families.

His father was one of 13 children and his mother one of eight.

His grandmother on one side of the family died at the age of 93 and both grandparents on the other side are still alive in their 80s.

Before electricity was introduced to Praslin Island in 1981, people used oil and kerosene lamps for lighting, and wood and gasoline for cooking.

A routine developed in Hervee's family with dinner at 6pm, storytime at 7pm and lights out at 8pm.

"We got up at 5am and started work at daybreak at 6am," Hervee said.

"My grandmother still keeps to this pattern."

Hervee said he enjoyed listening to stories told by his grandmother and still went over to hear them, even when television started on the island.

The big problem on the island before the introduction of electricity was the lack of refrigeration.

In the hot weather, food would go off quickly.

There are many hotels and guest houses and car-hire firms on the Seychelles.

Dunedin's David Horne and I hired a blue Hyundai rental car at the airport and travelled around the main island of Mahe.