Shock and oar

New Zealanders need little reminding of the fickle nature of the ocean. But as Bev Bradford discovered, this knowledge should go with you when you travel.

"IF my husband survives this, I'm gonna kill him!" shrieked the American woman sitting opposite me on the glass-bottomed boat - a boat that bobbed skipperless in the middle of the Badung Strait off Bali.

I wasn't sure if I was more alarmed that her husband, drifting out of sight in the stormy seas, couldn't swim; or whether he would in fact meet his demise at the hands of his distraught wife.

My immediate concern, however, was that my family and four fellow snorkellers were abandoned by the skipper on a small, ill-equipped boat in the face of a fast-approaching storm.

The day had started with a leisurely cruise, setting off from the sleepy Balinese port of Sanur to the nearby island of Nusa Lembongan.

Then there were dark swirling waters.

They concealed a history of calamity.

It was the site of the battle of Badung Strait, fought on the night of February 19, 1942, when an invading flotilla of Japanese destroyers overwhelmed an Allied force of American, British, Dutch and Australian command.

We motored through ominous whirlpools.

Once on the island, our pre-snorkel safety "brief" was exactly that.

An inadequate assortment of ill-fitting life jackets, snorkels and flippers was distributed, and we were ushered to the glass-bottomed boat.

At this stage we should have considered one skipper to 10 snorkellers was skimping a little, but no-one seemed bothered.

As we made our way through the reef to the calmer snorkelling area, a rain-charged front loomed ahead of us.

Eager to get some time in the water before the weather hit us, I led the way, floundering flipper-first into the deep.

The sea pulled at me as soon as I surfaced.

"Make sure the kids have their life jackets on firmly," I gurgled to my husband through my snorkel.

Kate and Matt plopped into the water beside me, followed by my husband and four others.

Distracted by the luminous variety of fish flashing below us, we didn't immediately notice the speed and strength of the current pulling us away from the boat.