A panoply of canopy in NZ's ancient forests

The Four Sisters portray remarkable sibling harmony. Photo by Paul Rush and Footprints Waipoua.
The Four Sisters portray remarkable sibling harmony. Photo by Paul Rush and Footprints Waipoua.
It's been noted before that there's little as lovely as a tree. Travel writer Paul Rush discovers the same on a journey into the forests of ancient New Zealand.

Footprints Waipoua guide Joe Wynyard knows the enchanted forest intimately but continues to harbour an inexplicable fear of the children of the mist.

Many times he has traversed the winding trails at night and felt a presence - a mystical spirit figure shadowing him.

"One night, on my possum-eradication run, I had this unmistakable feeling that something was taunting me. I looked up and saw a tiny human figure dart across the track.

"The vegetation parted, the unknown being passed through and it closed up again. I spoke to it gently, assuring it that I meant no harm.

"I grew up in Whirinaki, an isolated area of the Hokianga, so I'm no stranger to turuhu people and patupaiarehe fairy folk."

Joe and fellow guide Dan have a compelling desire to reveal all the secrets of their beloved Waipoua Forest as part of their new tourism venture.

Dan is a local too, coming as he says from the tiny settlement of Taheke, "the pivotal centre around which the universe revolves".

Tonight, they are guiding our small group of ecotourists on the Footprints Twilight Encounter, a four-hour night tour of the Waipoua kauri forest.

Our group includes Gerald and Anne from Sydney, who are enjoying their fourth New Zealand visit.

Ben is on a six-week visit from Rugby, England and is a descendant of William Webb Ellis, the first man to pick up a ball and run with it, creating the sport of rugby.

Kylie comes from Queensland and Susan left Basel, Switzerland, three months ago to explore thoroughly the land of the kiwi.

Our guides start the tour by testing our knowledge of birdcalls.

We recognise the melodious tones of the tui but mistake the long shrill whistle of the male kiwi.

The more aggressive squeal of the female bird sounds as if she is hen-pecking the mild-mannered male.

After a karakia (prayer), we enter the forest and examine some of the 300 species of trees, plants and ferns.

Dan pulls out his "laptop", a plastic folder with illustrations of the different species of kiwi found in the forest.

We study this in the fading light as a lone native owl begins his haunting repetitive call of "morepork, morepork".

"The kauri tree is a hermaphrodite, producing male and female cones like these," Dan explains, passing me a healthy-looking male specimen.

"The female blossoms open at a certain time, prompting the male to pollinate and then ignominiously fall to the ground and die."

I'm not too enamoured of the kauri sex life, but I admire its mechanisms for shedding bark to rid the adze-shaped trunk of mosses and parasites and generating flows of gum to heal gaping wounds.

It is pleasing to hear that the Department of Conservation collects seeds, propagates new plants in nurseries and makes them available to Northland residents, thereby encouraging regrowth of kauri.

As the light begins to fade, we penetrate deeper into the forest, listening to the shrill, bell-like whistles and guttural croaks of the tui, the last of the daytime birds.

We come upon a rare sight in Waipoua, the "Four Sisters".

These four kauri trees live in perfect sibling harmony only 1m or so apart.

Joe finds a rare carnivorous kauri snail, which has some unusual habits such as whistling, eating worms and climbing trees.

"Oh mighty Father of the Forest, you have stood for 2000 years, you stand tall today - may you continue to stand and prosper. We bring you greetings from this whanau."

In the darkness, Dan's deep, disembodied voice rings out in a mihi (greeting), which reverberates through the dense canopy.

We have reached the base of a giant tree. Te Matua Ngahere has to be seen to be believed.

It is surely some unreal creation of Weta Workshops. A vast wall of timber that reminds me more of a cliff face than a tree.

Where a normal round trunk would taper as it reaches skywards towards the life-giving light, this monster has spread sideways with an obscenely wide waist.

The Father of the Forest is one of the largest living things in the world.

A businessman recently took the Twilight Encounter Tour and was moved to recite a Chinese poem.

"Tell me and I will forget, show me and I will remember, but involve me and I will understand."