Emily Menkes' experiences amid the poverty and
grime of Calcutta lend a whole new meaning to the festive
season.
Public holidays can take on entirely new meanings when they
are experienced in a different context.
This year, I am spending Christmas and New Year in Calcutta,
working for the Institute for Indian Mother and Child
(IIMC*).
As a result, my preconceptions about the meanings of these
holidays have been completely skewed.
Even in a secular context, the meaning of Christmas still has
relevance and value, particularly the emphasis on family,
togetherness and charity.
And there is nowhere in the world better to appreciate the
full implications of this idea than Calcutta.
With 14 other volunteers from New Zealand, Australia, Poland,
Germany and Italy, I have spent December in very basic
conditions in the middle of a densely populated, dirty and
fascinating city.
It's been a massive reality check for us all.
India's renowned culture shock and poverty have been
intensified by a lack of hot water, myriad mosquitoes and
relentless noise, air and water pollution.
These inescapable features of life in Calcutta penetrate even
into our dreams, despite the knowledge that we are staying
only seven weeks.
Seven weeks can seem like an unbearably long time under these
circumstances.
But a resilience born of camaraderie and the knowledge that
we're doing something useful makes it all seem worthwhile.
As a result, our spartan circumstances have become
increasingly easy to adapt to and, as our attitudes have
changed, so have our preconceptions.
The IIMC is a developmental organisation split into four main
missions: medical, educational, micro-credit, and women's
empowerment.
I originally came in order to teach colloquial English and
computer skills to Bengali children but, as December is an
examination month, my activity has been limited to occasional
teaching of instructional songs and painting in creches,
orphanages and schools.
I've also taken part in the healthcare activities the other
volunteers are involved in (all except me are medical
students).
Working in rural health clinics, I've learned how to dress
wounds, administer injections and record temperatures,
respiratory rates and blood pressure levels.
Not what I came for, but that hardly matters on the ground in
India.
We have tried (because we're young and passionate) to take
this developmental project to our own personal and grassroots
level.
On Christmas Day, we took food to the slum areas of
Tollygunge, the neighbourhood around our guest house in
southern Calcutta.
It caused, in its intensity, a near-feral lolly-scramble,
with reams of malnourished children bombarding us for our
food.
As a result, the provisions we got didn't last nearly as long
as we'd hoped.
Having extreme poverty right on the doorstep of our
middle-class, relatively safe neighbourhood proved how these
realities simply cannot (and should not) be ignored.
Another personal project has been helping a genuine victim of
circumstance get his life back together.
One of the volunteers talked to a beggar on the street, found
him to be intelligent and articulate, and shortly afterwards
introduced him to the IIMC director, who is in the process of
providing him with a place to live and a micro-credit loan.
Not only has this helped him, and us (with our desire to make
change), but it has also helped to soften our scepticism of
the beggars who are devastatingly present on most street
corners.
As India has many scams and gang connections, every beggar's
presentation and story has to be taken with a pinch of salt,
because you are never sure where the money you give them is
really going.
I have never fully appreciated my fortunate circumstances
until
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