Subtle differences experienced at wines roadshow

Nearly 30 Central Otago winemakers were showing more than 90 wines in Dunedin last week to trade and public.

The roadshow, held in the Dunedin Public Art Gallery, included a masterclass taken by Rudi Bauer to demonstrate the subregional differences - always interesting.

Pinot noir from the four main areas - Gibbston, Wanaka, Alexandra, and Lake Dunstan, which includes Bannockburn, Lowburn, Northburn and Bendigo - each has slightly different characteristics: the big cherry fruit from Bannockburn; structured wines from Bendigo; the perfumed red fruits from Alexandra; and the slightly herbal earthiness from Gibbston that sometimes needs bottle age to develop attractiveness.

It was tasting Hawkshead Pinot Noir 2007 (about $38), a wine from a Gibbston vineyard, and comparing it with the 2006, that made me realise just how some pinot noir grown in Gibbston needs time to develop.

I'd tasted the Hawkshead 2006 in the middle of last year and in March this year and both times found it tight, herbal and a bit too green for enjoyment.

The 2007 tasted last week was similar, but the 2006 is now drinking nicely: fragrant, mellow and charming! (www.hawksheadwine.com [2]).

Several producers I hadn't met before were showing their wines in the roadshow. One that particularly stood out was Brennan, from a 14-year-old vineyard in Gibbston, which sells grapes to other producers.

Sean Brennan is making a small amount of delicious bright gewurztraminer, textural pinot gris, and an intense, gutsy but charming pinot noir (all from 2007, $30-$45).

They show the benefit of older vines and careful selection. Their tasting room on Gibbston Back Road is due to open before Christmas (www.brennanwines.com [3]).

Domain Road is a new label with a vineyard in Bannockburn on the terrace above the Felton Rd vineyards.

The 2007 pinot noir oozing cherries and a hint of mineral ($35), and the 2008 taut, racy riesling ($20) stood out for their purity of fruit(graeme@domain-road-vineyard.co.nz [4]).

Greylands Ridge vineyard in Letts Gully Rd, Alexandra, owned by Pat and Judy Medlicott, produces a charming 2007 pinot noir with a firm finish ($36) which I imagine would be good with food, (www.greylandsridge.co.nz [5]).

Also new is Locharburn, owned by Chris and Jenny Hill, who have recently moved south from New Plymouth to their 9ha vineyard on a terrace above the Wanaka road.

They have a textural pinot gris ($25), a rose and a floral, cherryish pinot noir ($36). Conveniently, the pinot is also available in half-sized bottles, (www.locharburnwines.co.nz [6]).

Also at the top of Lake Dunstan is Tarras Vineyards, which makes single-vineyard wines - the charming, aromatic The Steppes Pinot Noir 2007 from the river gravels below Maori Point Rd, and the intense, well-structured The Canyon Pinot Noir 2008, from a vineyard on the terrace above Bendigo. Each is $38, (www.tarrasvineyards.com [7]).

25 Steps, the striking vineyard with 25 terraces, at the north end of the Sugarloaf near Lowburn, planted by Peter and Nicki Treacy, has a spicy, perfumed 2006 pinot noir (about $38, www.25steps.co.nz [8]).

If you can't find Central Otago wines in your local wine store, try Central Otago Wine Cellar at www.centralotagowine.co.nz [9], or on individual websites.