WINE REVIEWS: Late-picked grapes a sweet treat

Late harvest and botrytis wines are little gems.

The grapes remain on the vines until they are intensely sweet, and sometimes concentrated by botrytis (noble rot) until they are dried like raisins.

Only a few drops of nectar can be squeezed from these.

The most intense come in small bottles and make a sensual finish to a quiet meal with a few friends in a break from the Christmas rush.

Best by themselves, or perhaps with a light fruit dessert or a plain almond and orange biscotti.

All wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz

 

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◊ BEST VALUE

Ata Rangi Kahu Botrytis Riesling 2008.
$32 half-bottle.

A stylish, full-on sticky, oozing dried apricots, tropical fruit, honey, mandarin and a hint of new leather, a silky texture and a crisp, clean, well-balanced finish.

A classic that will develop with a little more bottle age.

4 stars (out of 5)
Good value

www.atarangi.co.nz

 

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Main Divide Pokiri Reserve Late Picked Pinot Gris 2009
$25

Late-harvested pinot gris is not common, but this has lovely hints of toasted nuts, a suggestion of caramel and a rich, oily texture.

3 stars (out of 5)
Average value

www.maindivide.com

 

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Pegasus Bay Aria Late Picked Riesling 2008
$37

A third of the grapes for this were affected by noble rot, which adds a dimension of dried apricot and honey to the bright riesling flavours suggesting peach, mandarin and grapefruit. Medium sweet but nicely balanced with a bright tension between sweetness and acidity.

3 stars (out of 5)
Below average value

www.pegasusbay.com

 

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Pegasus Bay Encore Noble (half bottle) Riesling 2008
$37

A more intense version of the Aria made from fully botrytised riesling, this has the same lovely peach and citrus flavours with undertones of buttered toast and nuts, but its essential purity and delicacy allied with its searing, lush intensity lift this above the ordinary.

5 stars (out of 5)
Average value

www.pegasusbay.com

 

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Amisfield Central Otago Noble (half bottle) Sauvignon Blanc 2008
$45

A golden, pungent wine with exotic aromas and undertones of passionfruit, herbs and mineral, a background of creamy vanilla and buttery nuts, with a long, lingering aftertaste.

Not for the faint-hearted, this wine can match strong blue cheese or gooseberry cake.

The origins of this barrel-fermented style are in Sauternes and Barsac.

5 stars (out of 5)
Average value

www.amisfield.co.nz

 

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Framingham Marlborough Noble (half bottle) Riesling 2008
$32

A classy lip-smacking wine oozing lime, lemon, ripe peaches and apple with a hint of honey and apricot, a rich, oily texture and delicate, but intense, nicely balanced finish.

4 stars (out of 5)
Average value

www. framingham.co.nz

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