Reader postcard: The Amazon basin

When we visited South America, we wanted to spend time in the Amazon basin, even though it might be outside our comfort zone.

When I picked my way carefully down the muddy bank to the river, and the narrow flat-bottomed boat rocked ominously, I knew this would be exciting travel.

For six hours the boat moved up the Tambopoata River. In most places the jungle reached the water's edge.

Sometimes a dugout boat lay on the bank and there was a track through the jungle to a plantation on the river terrace. We passed one gold dredge.

The river was brown, fast-flowing and deep.

We spent two nights at an ecolodge, comfortable and attractive. The only inside lighting was candles and the modern plumbing had to be treated sensitively.

Here we went for a night stroll to see some of the nocturnal jungle inhabitants - tarantulas, spiders, a snake. Bats were visible, but not flying.

Another four hours of travel upriver took us to an island where we would camp out for two nights in a jungle clearing.

This gave us the opportunity to wake before dawn, travel across the river and walk on a jungle track to see the birds come in to the clay cliffs at sunrise.

Many birds arrive then to peck at the clay. This helps them to digest safely the jungle fruit.

Watching the brilliantly coloured birds is amazing. It looks as if clouds of brightly coloured butterflies are clinging to the cliff. Once satisfied, the birds disappear into the jungle.

Most are wary of human contact. However, a banded scarlet macaw visited the campsite, and was friendly enough to feed from our hands.

Around the campsite, we saw vultures, lizards and dusky titi monkeys. Two of our party sighted jaguar prints.

We did not see any piranhas in the river, but there were little biting insects which seemed immune to insect repellent.

Travelling on the river we saw family groups of capybara basking on the sunny bank.

A night-time boat cruise, drifting quietly into the river showed us caymans - reptiles related to the alligator. One, about 1.5m long, slithered down the bank so close I could have touched it.

Sleeping in the jungle, wondering what made the noise that woke you, was a challenge, as was the travel. But it was a memorable experience, not to be missed.

• Lynne Hill lives in Mosgiel.

Whether you're just back from Timbuktu or Taieri Mouth, we'd be interested to hear. For a chance to win a Lonely Planet book on the country of your choice, send a 300-400-word article and photographs to odt.features@odt.co.nz [2] or post to Reader Postcard, Travel Editor, PO Box 181, Dunedin. Remember to include a self-addressed envelope and your phone number.