Wine dream bears fruit

The Waitaki Valley’s longest-serving viticulturist Murray Turner has started his own label, River...
The Waitaki Valley’s longest-serving viticulturist Murray Turner has started his own label, River-T Estate Wines, with his partner Karen Tweed. Photo: Hamish MacLean.
Few people know how to grow in the at-times unforgiving Waitaki Valley like fourth-generation horticulturist Murray Turner.

The Turner family moved from Christchurch to the valley in 1976 and bought  a 24ha stonefruit orchard. They expanded it into  the 52ha Waitaki Orchards before dividing it and selling it in parcels in 1997.

Mr Turner, among the first to see the potential for viticulture in the valley, began dreaming of the possibility in 1979 and this summer, with his partner Karen Tweed, launched River-T Estate Wines.

Consistent yields  had been a struggle for vineyards in the tiny wine-producing region  since viticulture began  there in 2003, keeping away investors.‘‘We are the latest in New Zealand — I think we probably are — to harvest. We are right at the end of the spectrum, but the quality of wines that have come out of here are outstanding. And that’s what’s kept us in it.

"That’s what got me hooked. I always believed it would work — but certain sites are better than others."

The former general manager of Kurow Estate Ltd has a 4ha block that in its first commercial year produced 1000 cases of four varieties. He and his partner wanted to remain "within 100km of where we live".

"Our philosophy is we want to grow wines that locals can afford to buy," Mr Turner said.

"Local wines for local folk — that’s it," Ms Tweed said.

Costs were kept low at the small vineyard, where she acted as "girl in the vineyard" and did the marketing, while Mr Turner helped out at  weekends.

He managed the first planting for Dunedin businessman Howard Paterson, who planted the first grapes in the Waitaki Valley, at Doctors Creek.

He had worked with Jim Jerram at Ostler, Quasar Vineyard and John Forrest of Forrest Estate.

Only about 10 vineyards remained in what is known as New Zealand’s newest wine region and those who produced there were considered to be "very much pioneering".

"People get into it because they sell the lifestyle and the land. Then after about 10 years it sort of comes of age because then you end up with what’s worked and what hasn’t; what varieties have worked, what clones. And then it shakes down to who are the stayers."

After supplying grapes to Grant Taylor from Valli Vineyards for his Waitaki Valley wine since 2009, they enlisted Mr Taylor as a winemaker as well as highly regarded French winemaker Antony Worch, from Alexandra Vintners.

hamish.maclean@odt.co.nz

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