"I defined vegetables by what they are not. They are not slabs of marbled, mouth-watering meat and therefore they are somehow lacking. Boy, was I wrong.
"Nowadays, I’ve wholeheartedly embraced a more vegetable-focused approach to barbecuing."
For Purviance that does not mean tossing a handful of asparagus spears or onion slices on the grill alongside meat but making those vegetables spectacular in their own right.
"I’m talking about elevating the flavours, aromas, textures and colours of an array of vegetables to the point where they deserve to be the stars of the show."
He has included seafood in some recipes as way of "enriching" people’s options while still staying relatively light and healthy.
"I’m not suggesting that you stop enjoying gloriously barbecued meats and poultry. Have them. And when you do, would it be nice to have something superb in the vege department alongside?"
Some fruits can also benefit from a turn on the barbecue and without much effort can be turned into a dessert such as a summer berry crostata cooked on a pizza stone or a banana split.
"Bringing fruits and vegetables from the edge of the plate to the centre is not a sacrifice at all. It’s an awesome adventure."
There is also a section on pizza with vegetable-forward toppings and breads such as naan and even scones.
In Weber’s Ultimate Veggie Barbecue he also includes handy guides to using barbecues using different fuels and his tips for "barbecue greatness".
That advice includes preheating the barbecue on high first, letting it get screaming hot for 10 minutes, cleaning the grill when it’s hot, have everything you need before you start cooking, season the food well, oil the food not the grill, don’t crowd the barbecue, put the lid on it to keep the grill hot and prevent flare-ups and don’t fiddle with the food, turn only once or twice.
There is also a guide to approximate cooking times for different vegetables and fruit.
The book
Images and text from Weber’s Ultimate Veggie Barbecue by Jamie Purviance, photography by Tim Turner, Michael Warren, Ray Katchatorian, Jamieson Mullholland. Murdoch Books RRP $37.99.
Fish tacos with Tex-Mex slaw
These hearty tacos have the ideal balance of creamy and crunchy. Use a meaty white fish, and cut the fillets into same-size cubes to ensure they are done evenly. Refrigerate the slaw for at least 1 hour to allow the flavours to develop and the cabbage to soften.
Serves 4-6
Tex-Mex slaw
150g (2 cups) thinly sliced red cabbage (about ¼ head)
2 Tbsp coarsely grated onion
2 Tbsp fresh lime juice
2 Tbsp fresh orange juice
1 tsp sugar
¾ tsp sea salt
¾ tsp ground cumin
⅛ tsp cayenne
1 garlic clove
1 large avocado, halved, pitted and peeled
125ml (½ cup) sour cream
2 Tbsp fresh lime juice
½ tsp sea salt
¼ tsp chipotle chilli powder
¼ tsp Mexican hot sauce, such as Cholula
Rub
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 ½ tsp sea salt
1 tsp garlic powder
½ tsp sweet paprika
¼ tsp ground coriander
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
900g skinless firm, meaty fish fillets, pin bones removed and cut into 2.5cm pieces (see Note)
8cm x 20cm flour or corn tortillas
Lime wedges
Coriander leaves
1 jalapeno chilli, thinly sliced
Method
If using bamboo skewers, soak them in water for at least 30 minutes.
In a medium bowl, mix together all the slaw ingredients. Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 6 hours to allow the flavours to develop.
In a food processor, pulse the garlic to chop finely. Add all the remaining crema ingredients and process until smooth, scraping down the sides of the bowl once or twice. You should have about 375ml (1½ cups). Transfer to a small bowl, cover, and refrigerate for up to 6 hours.
Thirty minutes before barbecuing, mix together all the rub ingredients in a medium bowl. Add the fish pieces and turn to coat on all sides. Let stand at room temperature while you prepare the barbecue.
Brush the cooking grills clean. Grill the fish skewers over direct medium-high heat, with the lid closed, until the fish pieces are golden and beginning to turn opaque in the centre but are still moist, 7-9 minutes, turning a few times. Transfer to a platter.
Warm the tortillas over direct medium-high heat until lightly toasted on each side, 30-60 seconds total. Transfer to a plate. Drain the slaw.
Spoon 1 tablespoon of the crema on to each warm tortilla. Slide the fish from a skewer on to each tortilla, and add a squeeze of lime juice. Top with the slaw, dividing it equally. Garnish with the coriander, jalapeno and a drizzle of crema.
Serve right away, with lime wedges on the side.
NOTE: Many finfish have tiny, soft bones called pin bones. The best tools for removing them are a pair of needle-nosed pliers, bought at a hardware store or kitchen shop, tweezers or a small square of paper towel.
The pin bones run lengthways, with the grain of the flesh, so the bones all point in the same direction.
Run your hand along the flesh to feel the exposed ends, then use the pliers or small piece of paper towel to extract the bones one at a time, pulling parallel to the direction of the bone.
Pin bones are easier to remove if the fish is cold, as warmer flesh tears more easily.
VARIATIONS
This recipe is just a starting point. Any other firm, meaty fish would work well, including tuna and salmon. You could also use prawns or scallops with great results.
The other taco components are replaceable as well. Instead of the red cabbage slaw, just use 150g (2 cups) shredded green cabbage.
Instead of the avocado crema, use 250ml (1 cup) store-bought salsa. You might also want to add some guacamole or sour cream (or both).
Barbecued cos salad with Caesar dressing
If you have never thought of barbecuing lettuce, this is a good time to give it a try. The lightly charred leaves taste as if a bit of smoked meat has been tucked into this meatless dish. Cos lettuce hearts work especially well here, as their firm, sturdy structure makes them easy to turn.
Serves 4
Dressing
1 anchovy fillet packed in olive oil, drained, or ½ tsp anchovy paste
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1½ Tbsp mayonnaise
1½ tsp fresh lemon juice
1 tsp Dijon mustard
½ tsp Worcestershire sauce
½ small garlic clove, finely chopped
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
1 mini baguette, about 15cm long, cut lengthways into quarters
1 garlic clove, cut in half
3 hearts of cos lettuce, each cut lengthways into quarters with the stem end intact
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 Tbsp grated parmesan cheese
Method
Prepare the barbecue for direct cooking over medium heat (180°C).
Put the anchovy fillet in a small bowl and mash to a paste with the back of a fork. Add the remaining dressing ingredients and whisk to combine.
Brush the cooking grills clean. Barbecue the bread quarters over direct medium heat for 12 minutes, with the lid closed, until lightly toasted, turning three times. Remove from the barbecue and rub the cut sides of the bread with the cut sides of the garlic clove. Set aside.
Brush the lettuce all over with the oil. Barbecue over direct medium heat for about a minute, with the lid open, until slightly wilted. Remove from barbecue. Arrange the lettuce on a serving plate and top with dressing and cheese.
Serve immediately with the toasted bread quarters.
Iced cinnamon rolls
OK, including cinnamon rolls in a barbecue book is a stretch. It begs the question, what is barbecue, anyway? However, you might be surprised by how amazingly good cinnamon rolls cooked on the barbecue actually are.
Makes 12 rolls
Serves 6-12
Dough
300ml (1¼ cups) warm full-fat milk (38°C)
5 Tbsp granulated sugar
10g instant dry yeast
1 tsp sea salt
3 large eggs, at room temperature
750g (5 cups) plain flour, plus more for dusting
115g unsalted butter, softened
Filling
225g (1 cup) light brown sugar
1 Tbsp ground cinnamon
115g unsalted butter, softened
Icing
115g (½ cup) cream cheese, softened
3 Tsp full-fat milk
225g (scant 2 cups) icing sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
⅛ tsp sea salt
Method
In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk 125ml (½ cup) of the milk, 1 Tbsp of the sugar and the yeast and allow to stand for about 5 minutes until frothy. Add the remaining milk, the remaining sugar, the salt and eggs and, using the paddle attachment with the mixer on low speed, beat for 1 minute.
Change to the dough hook and add 675g (4½ cups) of the flour. Starting on low speed and working slowly up to medium, mix for about 3 minutes until the dough is fairly smooth. Reduce the speed to mediumlow and add 115g butter and the remaining flour.
Transfer the dough to a floured work surface and knead for about 2 minutes until the dough is soft, smooth and no longer sticky. Transfer the dough to an oiled bowl, cover and allow to rise in a warm place until doubled in bulk, about 1½ hours.
Combine the brown sugar and cinnamon. Press the dough down, and then turn out on to a lightly floured surface. Knead the dough two to three times, and then roll out into a 60cm long x 30cm wide rectangle. Spread the dough all over (do not leave a border) with 75g of the butter. Sprinkle evenly with the cinnamon sugar. Starting at the long side closest to you, tightly roll up the dough, and then pinch the seam closed.
Cut the log of dough into 12 x 5cm pieces. Generously grease the bottom and side of a 25cm cast-iron frying pan with the remaining butter and arrange the rolls, cut side up, in a single layer. Cover with aluminium foil and allow to stand at room temperature for 1 hour, or refrigerate overnight. (If refrigerating, return to room temperature before proceeding.)
Prepare the barbecue for indirect cooking over medium heat (as close to 180°C as possible).
Place the pan with the rolls covered with foil over indirect medium heat, close the lid and cook for 25 minutes. Wearing insulated barbecue mitts or oven gloves, rotate the pan 180 degrees, close the lid and cook for 10 minutes.
Remove the foil from the pan and continue cooking for 20-30 minutes more until the dough is cooked through and the tops are lightly browned. Remove from the heat, set on a heatproof surface and allow to cool for 10 minutes. Meanwhile, make the icing.
In a large bowl, stir the cream cheese and 3 Tbsp milk. Sift the icing sugar into the bowl and stir to combine. Add the vanilla and ⅛ tsp salt and whisk until smooth.
Spread the icing over the top of the rolls and allow to stand for 10 minutes. Using a thin-edged knife, cut between the seams of the rolls and transfer to a platter or wire rack. Serve warm or at room temperature.
