The flower of winter

Cauliflower, on first glance, may not be high on your list of things to get excited about.

Like cabbages, broccoli and other brassica, cauliflower seems to be one of those vegetables that are destined to be found year-round on most supermarket shelves.

This, in itself, is a bit of a problem for me.

It seems that once upon a time, some enterprising person decided that if people liked certain fruit and vegetables, then surely it would be a great idea to have them available all year round. Fast-forward to 2012 and we have tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers available in winter - albeit for a price - and cauliflowers and parsnips available in summer!The problem for me is, how can you get excited about something when it is always there?

Like all vegetables, cauliflower has a season and winter, believe it or not, is it.

This is when they are at their best, so it makes total sense to make the most of these remarkable vegetables right now!Handled with respect and a deft touch, cauliflower can be a revelation. A good cauliflower gratin is a great accompaniment to roast meat or game and pureed, it goes beautifully with fish. Finely chopped, it adds a delicious texture and flavour to winter salads and can be also turned into fabulous spicy fritters.

So, when it comes to planning your next winter dinner party, think seasonally and think "caulis" because cauliflower deserves another look. After all, the proof is in the eating!

 


Photos by Monique Smith.
Photos by Monique Smith.
Seared salmon with cauliflower pureeand salad of shaved fennel, currants, and pinenuts

Serves 4


Ingredients

4 Tbsp currants
3 Tbsp quality red wine vinegar
4 180g salmon fillets, skin on and pin-boned
salt and pepper to season
60ml olive oil
cauliflower puree, warmed (see recipe below)
1 small fennel bulb, shaved
1 large Jerusalem artichoke, peeled and finely sliced
½  cup Italian parsley, picked
1 cup salad leaves
¼  of a small red onion, finely sliced
4 Tbsp pinenuts, lightly toasted

Soak currants in red wine vinegar overnight.

Season salmon fillets with a little salt and pepper on both sides.

Heat half of the olive oil in a large heavy-based frying pan over a high heat. When oil starts to smoke add salmon fillets and fry, skin side down, for 3 minutes.

When salmon is two-thirds cooked, turn and cook for a further minute before removing from the pan and allowing to rest in a warm place.

Mix currants, vinegar, pinenuts and remaining olive oil together in a small bowl.

Divide cauliflower puree between four plates and place salmon fillets on top.

Toss fennel, artichoke, parsley, salad leaves and red onion together and place on top of salmon.

Spoon currant and pinenut dressing over the top and serve immediately.


Cauliflower puree


Ingredients

1 small head cauliflower
300ml cream
30g unsalted butter
nutmeg to taste
salt and pepper to season 


Method

Remove leaves and core from cauliflower and cut into small florets.

Blanch cauliflower in a large pot of salted boiling water until tender, drain water and return to pot. Cover cauliflower with cream and bring to the boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer until cream is reduced by half.

Place cauliflower, cream and butter into a blender and pulse until smooth.

Season to taste with nutmeg and salt and pepper and reserve for later use.

 


Roast free-range chicken with winter tabouleh salad
Serves 4


Ingredients

150g bulgur wheat (cracked wheat)
4 free-range chicken breasts (or 1 whole free-range chicken, jointed)
salt and pepper
30ml olive oil
½  a fennel bulb, finely chopped
¼  head of cauliflower, leaves and stem removed and finely sliced
½ cup Italian parsley, finely chopped
2 Tbsp mint, finely chopped
2 Tbsp walnuts, finely chopped
6-8 radicchio leaves, finely chopped (optional)
pomegranate molasses dressing (see recipe below)

Method

Place bulgur wheat in a large stainless steel bowl and cover with warm water for 15 minutes before draining well and reserving.

Heat olive oil in a large heavy-based frying pan. Place chicken in pan, skin-side down and fry until skin turns a golden brown. Place into oven and roast for 5 to 6 minutes or until almost cooked.

Carefully remove from oven and allow to rest, skin side up. The heat remaining in the frying pan will continue the cooking process.

Place bulgur wheat, fennel, cauliflower, parsley, mint, walnuts and radicchio in a large bowl and dress with half of the pomegranate molasses dressing.

Season to taste with a little salt and pepper and divide salad between four plates.

Carve chicken and place on top of salad and drizzle with the cooking juices from the chicken and the remaining pomegranate molasses dressing.

Serve immediately.


Pomegranate molasses dressing


Ingredients

3 Tbsp pomegranate molasses
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
1 large clove garlic, crushed
1 ½ Tbsp water
6 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp caster sugar
salt and pepper to taste


Method

Mix all ingredients together in a small bowl.

Reserve for later use.

 


Cauliflower fritters with garlic yoghurt
Serves 8 as a side


Ingredients

1 cup natural yoghurt
1 clove garlic, crushed
½ tsp of caster sugar
1 small head cauliflower leaves trimmed, core removed and grated
½  cup of chickpea flour
½ cup cornflour
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp sea salt
pinch of ground gingerpinch of cayenne pepper
1 free-range egg, beaten
2L vegetable oil for frying
2 Tbsp sesame seeds, toasted
1 Tbsp onion seeds (optional)
¼ cup coriander leaves, picked


Method

To make garlic yoghurt, mix yoghurt, garlic and sugar together in a small bowl and refrigerate until ready to use.

Place grated cauliflower into a large bowl.

Add flours, spices and egg and mix well to combine.

Heat vegetable oil in a large heavy based pot to 160degC-170degC.

Mould fritters by squeezing cauliflower mixture into a tablespoon with your hand.

Gently ease the fritter from the spoon and carefully place into the hot oil.

Fry until dark golden brown, remove with a slotted spoon and drain on absorbent kitchen towel.

Season with a little more sea salt, place into a serving bowl and drizzle with garlic yoghurt.

Finish with sesame and onion seeds and a scattering of coriander.

 


•Bevan and Monique Smith own the multi-award-winning Riverstone Kitchen restaurant just south of the Waitaki bridge.

They are open Thursday-Monday from9am-5pm, and also from 6pm from Thursday to Sunday.


 

 

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