The most recent I've tasted, and to my mind the most successful, is Jacob's Creek Wah 2012 ($22), a white wine created specially to complement sushi and other Japanese dishes flavoured with soy.
It is apparently a blend of chardonnay, pinot gris and sauvignon blanc.
When tasted by itself, it was unexciting: a dry, light, sightly creamy wine with light fruit but little other character, but when tasted alongside the sweet, sour, salty flavours of soy and raw fish, it blossomed, still remaining in the background but certainly complementing the food.
I tried it with oka ita, a Tongan-style ceviche in coconut milk with a dash of soy and was surprised and delighted.
It demonstrates how carefully matched wine and food can enhance each other.
