One doesn't usually think of sauvignon blanc as complex - refreshing and lively, yes, but at this time of year, as the next harvest begins, many of last year's wines show the benefit of several months' bottle age.
Good sauvignon can be more than just exuberant fruit and crisp acidity.
It will continue to develop for three-four years or more.
Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective.
These are personal recommendations. charmian.smith@odt.co.nz
Bouldevines Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2010
$19.95
3 1/2 stars (out of 5)
Good value
A textural, mouthfilling wine with hints of golden kiwi and passionfruit, savoury/nutty undertones, and attractive, crisp finish.
Clos Henri Petit Clos Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009
$19
3 1/2 stars (out of 5)
Good value
At two years old this is drinking well, with aromatic hints of peas, passionfruit and gooseberry, a slight savoury nuttiness from lees stirring and a long, intense finish.
$22
4 stars (out of 5)
Good value
Pale in colour but certainly not lacking in flavour, this is aromatic with bright, zesty fruit underlaid by a steely minerality, and an intense, crisp finish.
It will continue to develop and drink well for three to four years.
$25
3 1/2 stars (out of 5)
Average value
Mineral, hints of river stones and ripe green fruits mingle in this stylish, mouthfilling wine typical of fresh, lively Marlborough sauvignon blanc.
www.nautilusestate.com
$35
4 stars (out of 5)
Below average value
Waiheke is associated with big reds rather than steely sauvignon, but this partly barrel-fermented blend of sauvignon and semillon is stylish with a smoky mineral undertone, hints of passionfruit and nuts, mouthfilling, dry and food-friendly.
www.manowarvineyards.co.nz
$24
4 1/2 stars
Good value
At two years old, oozing tropical (mango and sweet pineapple) flavours with undertones of peas and mineral, this single-block wine is pungent, rich and mouthfilling, with a crisp finish.
ANOTHER GLASS
Clos Henri Bel Echo Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009
$24
Four-and-a-half stars
good value
At two years old, oozing tropical (mango and sweet pineapple) with undertones of peas and mineral, this single block wine is pungent, rich and mouthfilling, with a crisp finish.
Clos Henri Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2009
$29.50
Four-and-a-half stars
average value
Clos Henri's flagship in an extra heavy bottle, this is complex with hints of honeydew melon and other ripe green fruits, with an underlying minerality, savoury hints of toasted nuts, and crisp, lively finish.
Man o' War Waiheke Sauvignon Blanc 2010
$25
Four stars
Good value
With ripe green fruits (kiwi, melon) with an underlying minerality (suggestions of coal and riverstones) and a hint of toasted nuts filling out the palate, this Waiheke Island wine is crisp and textural.
Te Awa Hawkes Bay Left Field Sauvignon Blanc 2010
$20
Three stars
Below average value
Fragrant with hints of tropical fruit, the aromas in this wine contrast with the taut, steely dry palate.
Forrest Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Five stars
not available
John Forrest sent a bottle of his 2006 sauvignon blanc along with the current (2010) release to show how well good sauvignon blanc can age. This turned out to be the star of the tasting, but is no longer available. It's complex with pungent hints of mineral, sea shells, honey and loral aromas, mouthfilling with a steely mineral backbone softened by the rich, silky texture. Nicely balanced, it continued to delight me for a couple of days after it was opened. It could be worth putting away a few bottles of the 2010.
