High tea on the high seas

Arcadia, a cruise ship of the P&O line, almost looks part of the city skyline as  it is docked in...
Arcadia, a cruise ship of the P&O line, almost looks part of the city skyline as it is docked in Sydney during its 2014 World Circumnavigation cruise last month. Photos by Louise Frampton.
Passengers soak up the sun by one of the pools on Arcadia.
Passengers soak up the sun by one of the pools on Arcadia.
The Palladium theatre seats about 700 people. Concerts are held each night at 8.30pm and repeated...
The Palladium theatre seats about 700 people. Concerts are held each night at 8.30pm and repeated at 10.30pm.
Marion Patterson, of Perth, looks forward to her dessert during lunch in the Meridian Restaurant....
Marion Patterson, of Perth, looks forward to her dessert during lunch in the Meridian Restaurant. She is served by waiter Pylon Pires, of India, one of nearly 900 staff on board.
Louise Frampton relaxes in the poolside bar as her five-night cruise from Auckland to Sydney...
Louise Frampton relaxes in the poolside bar as her five-night cruise from Auckland to Sydney aboard Arcadia comes to an end.

Cruise ships are one of the fastest-growing segments of the travel industry. Allied Press sub-editor Louise Frampton takes a trip on Arcadia to find out why.

Good service: it is something most of us would like to take for granted, but sometimes is sadly lacking.

Imagine a world in which you were greeted politely every time you walked out your door; every time you entered a shop; or every time you arrived for dinner.

Imagine being greeted with ''good morning Madam'', not just ignored or having to wait in line until a staff member finished a conversation with a co-worker.

Good service is a bit of fresh air we could all do with and, in this case, learn from.

Travelling five nights from Auckland to Sydney aboard the recently refitted cruise ship Arcadia, good service was what I became accustomed to.

This was initially quite surreal, if not slightly disconcerting.

For example, no matter what time I opened my cabin door, my cabin attendant would seemingly appear from nowhere with a cheery ''good morning Madam''.

And I would arrive back in my cabin after dinner to find the curtains pulled, my bed turned back and my nightwear folded neatly at the end of my bed.

It was a level of service Kiwis might find slightly invasive of their personal space, and yet could grow accustomed to.

But then it is understandable.

The staff, who come from a multitude of different countries, up to 45 depending on the ship but predominantly Indian on my cruise, rely on gratuities or tips to supplement their income.

So providing good service is in their interest.

Arcadia, a British-based P&O line ship, was on its 2014 World Circumnavigation cruise, which started in Southampton on January 10, and is due to finish back in Southampton on April 13 (92 nights).

It caters exclusively to adults.

The average age of passengers on board is about 71, which creates a quieter and slower-moving ambience than its sister ships, which cater to families.

I must admit, initially I felt I was witnessing a retiree version of Hi-de-Hi!, the 1980s TV sitcom about a British holiday camp.

There were daily announcements of activities (golf chipping, table tennis, cricket, quoits, bingo, art classes and dance classes to name a few) run by British-based activity co-ordinators who, dare I say, reminded me of the ''Yellow Coats'' on Hi De Hi!.

But I soon forgot my analogy.

I gradually began to appreciate the lifestyle and realised what a luxurious way of travelling it as.

The outstanding service by cabin attendants was continued by the restaurant staff.

Having the option of being waited on for all your meals as well as poolside service, was a first-class holiday treat and certainly made you feel pampered.

We could choose between five restaurants.

One buffet; two waited-service restaurants (one club dining and one freedom dining) and two surcharge specialty restaurants.

With 100 chefs on board, there was no waiting, no delays in ordering or in being served.

Each restaurant had its own galley, ensuring a finely tuned operation.

You got the same treatment no matter what you ordered.

The waiter would show you to your table, and delicately place the white linen napkin in your lap before taking your wine order, no matter whether you ordered the salmon roulade or the shepherd's pie.

The high level of service continued in the specialty restaurants.

Marco Pierre White's Ocean Grill, created in the character of London grill restaurants, certainly lived up to its reputation of ''classic grilled fare using the finest ingredients'' and was popular with passengers despite the surcharge.

By contrast, Michelin star chef Atul Kochhar's restaurant East, marketed as ''Asian-fusion'', was a little underwhelming.

I suspect I may have been spoilt by Dunedin's Thai and Vietnamese cuisine.

But what made the evening meal even more of a special occasion was the chance to glam up.

Each evening was allocated a different dress code, ranging from smart casual to black tie.

It was a ritual I suspect some long-term (predominantly male) passengers found tedious, and yet added a little sophistication to evenings out.

By day, passengers lounged in their deck chairs reading books, or challenged each other to sporting competitions, but by night Arcadia turned into a luxurious palace.

It was almost a different ship.

Shorts and jandals were swapped for evening dresses and high heels and the sun's rays were replaced by clever mood lighting.

Passengers could dine in luxury before listening to jazz in the Crow's Nest bar; catching a concert in the Palladium theatre; dancing the night away in the Globe; or trying their luck in the casino.

The Oasis Spa & Health Club was the perfect place to prepare for those evenings, with beauty, massage and wellness treatments available, as well as a gym.

The heated mosaic-tiled loungers in the thermal suite were one such relaxing treat.

It's hard to imagine how a solid tiled chair could be so comfortable, but the combination of heat and calming music made you appreciate the quietness and allowed you to lose your thoughts in the ocean view.

It was a refreshing break away from the Benidorm-esque leathery brown sunbathers who occupied the deck chairs outside.

I suspect New Zealand's ''slip, slop, slap'' sun-protection message had not reached the majority of the British passengers.

The service and lifestyle on board was obviously appreciated by many passengers.

Most ''cruisers'' I talked to were on their fifth or sixth cruise, although some had done more than 20.

The occasional rough seas didn't seem to worry them.

The 4m-5m swells I experienced on the first day of the cruise had me reaching for the travel sickness pills, which luckily seemed to do the trick.

Captain Aseem Hasmi, from Coventry, England, assured us that he avoided bad weather by leaving earlier or later than planned or by sailing around the edge of storms. This would sometimes result in changes to the itinerary.

As I adjusted to the gentle rolling motion of the ship, I began to appreciate my first cruise.

I now better understand why cruising is one of the fastest-growing segments of the travel industry.

It is an economical and relaxing way of getting from a to b.

There is no rushing, no stress about missing your connecting flight, and no worries about where to eat or sleep each night.

Prices range from about $175 to $415 per night depending on whether you have an inside room (no window), outside room (with window), a room with a balcony, or a mini-suite.

That also covers all your meals, most activities and evening shows.

It's a holiday to indulge in lovely food, relaxing treatments and spectacularly good service, even if it is slightly surreal.

But I had to laugh after I disembarked in Sydney and was waiting at the duty-free counter at the airport.

''Yeah, I'm coming'' someone yelled in a Aussie twang from the other end of the store.

''Where's Anna, she's meant to be on this counter [sigh]. I suppose I'll have to serve you then.''

Yes, after five nights of being pampered, I'd come back back to reality with a thud.

• Louise Frampton travelled courtesy of P&O Cruises.

 


What's new

The major changes as a result of the recent refit of the Arcadia are:

• The introduction of Atul Kochlar's East restaurant

• A redesign of The Crow's Nest lounge and bar

• A reconfiguration of the open-plan shopping area, incorporating more luxury brands

• The Globe late-night dancing venue can now be closed off to reduce noise

• The addition of 24 cabins on deck 10, including two new single-balcony cabins

• The addition of freedom dining: A waited service that means you can eat in the restaurant any time between 6.30 and 9.30 without booking first. You get to sit with different people every night, as opposed to club dining, which is at set meal times and a pre-booked table

 


Sound like you?

Arcadia's next 106-night world cruise departs Southampton on January 6, 2015, and is priced from $16,859* per person twin share. The Auckland to Sydney sector was priced from NZ$959 per person twin share (2015 fare not yet available).

A 20-night cruise from San Francisco to Sydney is available from $2919* per person twin share. For more information visit www.pocruises.com or contact your travel agent.

*Valid for sales until March 31, 2014.


 

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