Pam Jones heads to the hills in the Wakatipu for a new perspective on a favourite spot.
When I was in my 20s living in Queenstown I would sometimes drive to Moke Lake and marvel at its wilderness and solitude, always recharging from the small-scale adventure and never once spotting another soul there.
It would seem the secret is out, as on a recent trip there two decades later the lakefront was scattered with campers, mountainbikers and horse trekkers, although the magic of the spot remains.
Moke Lake is about 17km from Queenstown but it feels like another world.
Flanked by folds of mountains and inviting exploration of various kinds, the area has a dual kind of feel to it, having become a favourite haunt for many but remaining a well-kept secret to others.
I liked the mix, and it was nice to see groups of like-minded souls who didn't mind sharing the solitude.
There is fabulous walking, mountain biking and horse trekking around Moke Lake and it's a good spot for kayaking and fishing as well. Adjoining Moke Lake is Lake Kirkpatrick, which also offers great fishing.
Information panels at the lake outline nine walks in the area, including the 2-3 hour Moke Lake Loop Track; the 2-4 hour Mt Crichton Loop Track, which links to the Lake Dispute Walkway; and several walks beginning at the nearby Bob's Cove.
There is also a walk through Ben Lomond Station, which passes through the historic gold mining area of Moke Creek and the remains of Sefferstown (formerly Moke Creek Settlement).
The Department of Conservation operates a camping site at the lakefront and a camp ranger offers advice and collects fees, although bookings are not required.
Adults pay $10 a night, children aged 5-17 $5 a night and children under 5 stay for free. There is no charge for those wishing to visit just for the day.
The camping ground has toilets, water and a cooking shelter, so provides a few home comforts while retaining the rugged feel of the lake and surrounds.
There are lots of nooks and crannies in which to put your tent, the spread-out campers creating a peaceful vibe.
Nearby Ben Lomond (1748m) watches over and a host of other peaks encircle the lake.
They are silent guardians of a peaceful place, generous and steadfast in their shelter of travellers and provision of million-dollar views.
It might not be as deserted as it used to be, but Moke Lake is a slice of wilderness that still delivers a nice reprieve from everyday life.
We didn't catch a fish this time, but left quietly pleased at our re-discovery of a special place.
If you bring your tent, fishing rod and some sandwiches you can feast all day on the beauty of a deep, fulfilling hideaway.
