Beauty: The eyes have it

If the eyes are the windows to the soul, what are yours saying about you? Laura Hewson looks at how to make the most of what you have.

• DIY smoky eyes

Brow beaters
The eyebrows; we take them for granted but they make a huge difference to our appearance - just look at Frida Kahlo or Susan Boyle.

For those who have never touched their eyebrows, it pays to see a professional the first time round so you can get the shape right, says Rebecca Noakes, senior therapist at Spa St Clair in Dunedin.

"Then they can maintain the shape at home."

When plucking, make sure you have sharp tweezers and never go against the direction of hair growth as this can break hairs and leave black bumps under the skin, she says.

And don't get carried away. "Sometimes people over-pluck if they do it themselves,"says Noakes.

If this happens, the best thing to do is grow them out and then reshape them.

"Tinting them also helps fill in gaps and helps people to leave them while they grow back."

With tinting, Noakes recommends choosing the darkest colour in your hair, otherwise it can be a "huge shock".

She advises against lightening brows as the regrowth can look unnatural. "If you want to look lighter, go thinner, as thicker brows look darker."

Another option for fixing gappy brows is to use an eyebrow pencil or, for the more hardcore out there, you can even have them tattooed on - but ask around for recommendations before getting this done.

Cool shades
Senior make-up artist for MAC New Zealand Amber D says there are a few key ways to keep your look modern and flattering no matter what your age:

• If possible, get a make-up artist to match the appropriate shades and products to your skin type and do this seasonally.

• Experiment and try out new shades and techniques so that you don't end up with the same look for years. "Make-up should be fun and if you make a mistake it does come off," she says.

• Frosts are great on everyone to enhance the eyes, but the placement is important. Be careful to use very frosty shades on the eyelid only and no further than the crease so that lines aren't emphasised.

• When applying eyeshadow, start with the lightest shades and slowly add the darker shades until the eyes are at the desired darkness. "It can be tricky to do the dark first and it's always easier to add a bit more than to try and take away product if it's too heavy," she says. "If you have small eyes, not so much black."

Draw the line
While coloured eyeliners may induce unwelcome '80s flashbacks, guess what? They're back.

"Coloured liners are amazing for updating your look or tying in your look to the outfit you're wearing," says Amber D. "I always recommend having a black, dark brown and a couple of other shades so you can mix it up."

If you want a '20s style flicked-out line, then be brave and try liquid eyeliner. "I usually apply liquid liner in small parts across the lash line and join them up - it can be difficult to get an even line in one swoop," she says

Lashing out
Always curl lashes before using mascara, as the other way round can damage the lash.

"I always curl the lash really well first then apply a coat of mascara downwards then several coats upwards through the lash, to ensure the curl is held when the mascara dries," says Amber D.

Apply mascara to lower lashes only when you've applied shadow there as well. "When mascara is applied on the lower lashes, it creates a doll-like effect on a nude eye, which can look quite extreme. Smoky, dramatic eyes work great with lower lashes coated with mascara."

For added drama, consider applying false lashes but be careful which ones you buy, as the glue on some cheaper options can cause irritation.

"When applying lashes, I recommend a tiny drop of glue on the back of your hand then lightly running the edge of the lash through, ensuring that the whole filament of the lash is coated in glue," says Amber D.

"Try and get the lashes as close to your natural lash line as possible: look into a mirror but tilt your head back to help avoid too much blinking."

For those after blacker lashes without wearing mascara, Noakes suggests eyelash tinting.

"This is a good option for people with very fair lashes, sporty people, or those living in a hot climate."

Anyone can do it, but if you have any allergies or are sensitive to make-up, it would pay to do a patch test before tinting, just to check.

If there's no problem, the process takes about seven minutes for both eyes and the result lasts for about three weeks.

♣ TOP TIP: Mascaras are a breeding ground for bacteria, so for maximum hygiene, replace them every three months or so - any longer and you risk eye infections. Watch out if the smell or texture changes, and never share a mascara with anyone else.

Tools of the trade
If you are guilty of using the small, stubby sponge applicators that came with your eyeshadow kit, then you might be making things hard for yourself.

"Investing in good quality tools should never be underestimated. Professional quality brushes are an investment but will last you years if you take care of them," says Amber D.

Use a brush cleanser or shampoo and conditioner to keep them in good shape and condition.

Try to avoid tapping them - a small flick of the brush is better for removing excess product.

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Testers

Our readers put four mascaras through their paces. Here's what they thought.

• The Body Shop Divide and Multiply Mascara,
RRP $25
Mel Stevens (33)

"This is really different to the one I normally use. It took a while to dry, but it definitely made my lashes thicker and darker and it didn't smudge. It washed off really easily and it even smells nice."

 

• Revlon 3D Extreme Mascara,
RRP $28
Gayna McConnell (32)

"This mascara does what it promises - it thickened and lengthened my lashes for a dramatic look, but you do have to apply it carefully as it's quite thick. It was also really durable - I slept in it and it didn't leave a trace under my eyes."

 

• Maybelline Lash Stiletto,
RRP $24.49
Rachel Taylor (30)

"I usually use Maybelline Great Lash waterproof mascara because my eyes water a lot. This one felt really good - the product built up gradually, which meant I could apply heaps of coats. My lashes felt light and there were no clogs."

 

• Estee Lauder Turbolash All Effects Motion Mascara,
RRP $72
Kylie Reedyk (22)

"I wasn't sure about the vibration, but it went on really well without being clumpy. The end of the brush was longer than usual, which made it easier to get to the inner lashes. The mascara was really good, too."