New Zealand Wine Reviews

Some producers are hard to beat. Waipara-based Pegasus Bay is one of them.

Many things can affect your experience of wine - the company you drink it with of course, but also the temperature of the wine. While some lighter reds are best chilled, for most this emphasises the acidity, tannins and any herbaceousness. Too warm and the alcohol starts to evaporate and the flavours are muddied, but around 18-20degC the wine is likely to be at its best.

Because it is still relatively untrendy, riesling is great value. Without exception, all the wines in this tasting developed over two or three days, indicating their potential for cellaring. Although they are all exciting now, if you are patient, you'll find a more delicious, integrated wine two to five years after you buy it.

Sauvignon blanc released this time of year, while they are picking the next vintage, is alwaysinteresting and often more complex than younger wine. Sometimes it's just the effect of a year's age, but often it'sbecause of winemaking practices such as barrel fermentation, or lees ageing. For those who findmany ordinary sauvignon blancs boring, these wines are worth trying.

Pinot gris seems to be more interesting than a few years ago. Ageing on yeast lees, and sometimes barrel fermentation, can create texture, weight and interest in what can otherwise be a fairly bland wine.

Pinot noir, especially from cooler regions such as Waitaki, Alexandra and Gibbston, benefit from an extra year or two's bottle age. It allows the components to meld and the acidity to mellow..

Sauvignon blanc that has rested on yeast lees or been partially barrel-fermented generally has more texture, complexity and interest than those just fermented in stainless steel tanks then bottled.

Young riesling, if it's well balanced, is delicious but a few years bottle age can lift it to a new level. Of all the white varieties, it really repays the effort of cellaring.