As I type, I have snippets from songs running through my head: ‘‘What's it all about, Albie?'' (a degree of artistic licence there), followed by ‘‘There's a new kid in town''.
You may well wonder what causes this state of affairs: it is the three bottles in front on me, all made from the white grape variety albarino.
Variously known as albarino, albarinho or alvarinho, this variety is a relatively recent arrival to our country, the first release by Coopers Creek dating back only as far as 2009.
Albarino (as it is often known here) originally hails from Galicia, in northwestern Spain, and the far north of Portugal. We tend to think of Spain and Portugal as being blisteringly hot, but the regions in which this grape grows tend to be cooler and wetter, and close to our true antipodes.
The ‘‘rediscovery'' of the Spanish versions of this grape has lead to a surge of interest abroad, and a strong belief by winemakers in this country that our growing conditions are eminently suited to it.
Innovative wineries have planted this grape around the country, and while it is still a ‘‘work in progress'', early indications are positive.
I am aware of nearly 20 examples of this wine (there are likely to be many more) from areas as diverse as Matakana, Gisborne, Hawkes Bay, Nelson, Marlborough and Central Otago and winemakers will be trying to determine whether there is a particular ‘‘sweet spot'' for this grape in one or more parts of the country.
Albarino manages to be both floral and fruity, refreshing yet textural and with aromas and flavours that can range from lemon, grapefruit and orange citrus through to peach, honeysuckle and bergamot; often with an underlying saline/salty hint that can make it a great accompaniment to seafood.
The wines will not be easy to find, but the hunt can be worthwhile.
Price: $33 (cellar door)
Rating: Very good to excellent
A slow burner. Sweeter florals with apricot, honeysuckle and sea spray hints. Powerful palate with cooked apple, bitter almond and sea salt. Firm and dry with a chalky, herb-tinged finish.
This evolves into something much more supple and luscious: white flowers on the nose with honeyed notes on the enticing finish.
Price: $29 (cellar door)
Rating: Excellent
Subtle citrus and greengage plum with freshly cut herbs and nutty, almond notes. Quite zingy palate at first with citrus and grapy flavours leading to a saline element and a long appley finish.
This fleshes out and softens, showing lovely texture, blossom aromas, hints of kiwifruit and a lime-tinged finish.
Refreshing and delicious.
Price: $22 (cellar door)
Rating: Very good
Opens to cut grass, a grapy/muscat perfume and baking spices. Tingly acidity with stewed apple and almonds, leading into a salty, citrus finish.
The sav blanc-like gooseberry and cut grass notes build with aeration.
The wine shows considerable richness while retaining that bracing counterpoint and finish.
