WINE REVIEW: Tingling sauvignon blancs

Sauvignon blanc should leave your tastebuds dancing, or at least tingling, but unfortunately not all do.

In 2008, some wines were overcropped and their flavours dilute. The label may mention stonefruit and grapefruit but cardboard might be what comes to mind when you smell and taste it.

Good sauvignon blanc will sharpen your appetite with its mouth-watering freshness, but if there is not enough fruit flavour they can just be unpleasantly acidic.

Balance is everything in wine, even in sauvignon blanc.

◊ Best under $20

Pathway Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc
(about $15)

This new affordable label from Winegrowers of Ara (which also makes Composite and the top end Resolute wines) has a hint of lime and mineral, sweet fruit and a crisp, assertive finish.

Three stars (out of five)

Good value

www.winegrowersofara.co.nz

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◊ Best under $20

Cape Campbell Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008
(about $19)

I love this pungent style, smelling of dusty river stones with the mouth filled out with hints of bright green fruit - kiwi, gooseberry, lime, mineral with a crisp, assertive finish.

This comes from Blind River Valley.

Four stars (out of five)

Good value

www.capecampbell.co.nz

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Haymaker Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008
(about $17)

Fragrant with hints of passionfruit, citrus and tropical fruit, intense with a bright crisp finish, this affordable, reliable brand is usually worth looking out for.

Three stars (out of five)

Good value

www.mudhouse.co.nz

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Stoneleigh Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008
(about $22)

Stoneleigh is one of the longest established brands in Marlborough and this vintage has the usual pungent zestiness and assertive intensity that will wake you up.

It's perhaps a bit more steely and austere than some of the sweeter, more fruit-driven wine, but I enjoyed its textural mouthfeel and balance.

Three stars (out of five)

Average value

www.stoneleigh.co.nz

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Craggy Range Avery Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008
(about $26)

Of Craggy Range's three single-vineyard sauvignons, I prefer the Avery, with its fragrant fruit suggesting ripe tropical fruit, passionfruit, herbs and mineral, with a rich textural mouthfeel and bright, but not overly assertive finish.

Four stars (out of five)

Average value

www.craggyrange.com

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Tupari Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008
(about $28)

One of the more expensive sauvignons, this nevertheless has a complex attractive aroma with hints of tropical fruit, melon, herbs and mineral, a textural mouthfilling intensity and a bright finish with an aftertaste that creeps up on you.

A seriously good wine from Glenn Thomas, winemaker at Vavasour.

Five stars (out of five)

Good value

www.tupari.co.nz

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Another Glass

Forrest Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008
(about $22)

With a smart new label, this old favourite hints of celery, passionfruit and kiwi, with a textural, long, lively finish.

Three stars (out of five)

Good value

www.forrest.co.nz

 

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Wild Rock Elevation Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc
(about $19)

Wild Rock is an affordable label made by the formidable Craggy Range team.

This fresh and fragrant sauvignon hints of tart tatin - sweet apples with a touch of caramel, and a crisp taut finish.

Three stars (out of five)

Good value

www.wildrockwine.co.nz

 

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Two Paddocks Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2008
(about $20)

Lightly fragrant with a hint of freshly cut grass, sweet fruit and a very crisp, dry finish and pleasant aftertaste.

Two stars (out of five)

Average value

http://twopaddocks.com/

 

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Domain Road Central Otago Sauvignon Blanc 2008
(about $21)

This wine from Bannockburn has been partly barrel fermented which gives it a mouthfilling density supporting sweet fruit and hints of schist.

It has a crisp, assertive finish, and I expect it will develop with a another few months bottle age.

Three stars (out of five)

Good value

www.domain-road-vineyard.co.nz

Although wine sent for review is tasted blind to eliminate preconceptions, all wine tasting and evaluation is subjective. These are personal recommendations.
charmian.smith@odt.co.nz