Putting autumn on the plate

Canterbury duck breast. Photo: supplied
Canterbury duck breast. Photo: supplied
House-made beetroot ravioli. Photo: supplied
House-made beetroot ravioli. Photo: supplied

Hotel St Moritz Queenstown is well known among locals as the place to enjoy excellent cocktails and superb food, all the while enjoying beautiful views of Queenstown Bay, Jason Moss writes.

I recently had the great pleasure of meeting two of the Lombardi Restaurant's chefs.

Max and Hernan are so passionate about Central Otago, you could be forgiven for thinking they are from the region.

Max, who hails from France, explained that the inspiration for his duck breast dish was "looking at the autumn flavours, landscape and trying to put it on the plate'', while

Argentinian Hernan's love of pasta is evident for all to see. His beetroot ravioli is firm to the bite, yet soft and gooey with taste that "explodes'' in your mouth.

It is nicely balanced with a broccoflower sauce which perfectly complements the goat's cheese and manuka honey ravioli centre.

Most of the produce on the Hotel St Moritz's autumn menu is locally sourced, with the squid and octopus delivered fresh.

 


Canterbury duck breast
Chestnut crust, kumara mousseline, poached quince and silverbeet with Dubonnet and port sauce 

Ingredients

cornflour (to dust)
beaten egg
chestnut crust
salt and pepper

Chestnut crust

100g chestnut
25g gluten-free breadcrumbs
pinch thyme
finely chopped clove of garlic
pinch of finely chopped parsley

Kumara mousseline

2kg golden kumara
1 litre milk
300ml water
3 cloves garlic
pinch of thyme
1 Tbsp olive oil
salt and pepper

Poached quince

2 quinces
½ litre water
50g sugar

Dubonnet sauce

1 cup good beef stock
2 Tbsp Dubonnet (wine-based liqueur)
2 Tbsp port wine

 

Method

Place pan over a medium heat, dust the duck breast in cornflour then in egg. Press the non-skin side into the chestnut crust. Place the duck skin-side down in the pan until golden brown, turn over, add a couple of pieces of quince to the hot pan. Place in a hot oven for 3-5 minutes.

Heat another pan, saute the silverbeet until it stars to wilt.

Heat kumara mousseline and sauce.

Duck breast

Trim duck skin, so you are only left with the top covered. Score the skin with a sharp knife in a criss-cross pattern.

Chestnut crust

Blend ingredients until a rough texture is achieved.

Kumara mousseline

Combine ingredients and boil until tender. Then blend and pass through a drum sieve.

This can be placed in an airtight container and reheated when required.

Poached quince

Peel and core the quinces, cut into evenly sized pieces. Place in pot and simmer until tender.

Dubonnet sauce

Reduce stock by a third, then add Dubonnet and port.

Note: Do not add oil to the pan when cooking duck. By cooking the criss-crossed side first, the fat in the duck is gently released. If cooked at too high a heat, the skin burns without releasing the fat (leaving a layer of unrendered fat).

Duck breast cooks very quickly, 5-7 minutes total cooking time (that is pan and oven time). If undercooked, just place back in the oven to finish (duck is best served medium as it will continue to cook out of the oven).

Like all meats, allow time to rest (cover with foil and leave in a warm place for 5-7 minutes prior to cutting).

Wild duck is fantastic and can be used in this recipe, However, the breast will require the skin to be left on.

 


House-made beetroot ravioli
filled with goats cheese and manuka honey, broccoflower cream sauce, beetroot chips and Parmesan crisps 

Ravioli dough

900g flour
100g fine double zero semolina
400ml beetroot paste (see below)
3 eggs
20g salt

Beetroot paste

400g beetroot
water to cover

Filling

1kg creamy goat's cheese
85ml manuka honey
200g mozzarella cheese

Broccoflower sauce

500g broccoflower
100g shallots
2 garlic cloves
1 litre cream
pinch each of salt and pepper

Beetroot chips

fresh beetroot

Parmesan crisps

aged Parmesan (at least 12 months old)

 

Method

Divide dough and run through a pasta machine; dust, fold and run through the machine again. Continue this cycle while decreasing the thickness until your dough is 2mm-3mm thick.

Brush sheet of dough with beaten egg then evenly distribute approx. 1 heaped Tbsp filling on sheet of dough, together with a couple of pieces of diced beetroot on each of the cheese filling and cracked pepper. Layer another sheet of dough over the top, removing as much air as possible. Then cut into desired shapes and crimp around the edges.

Place a single layer on a baking sheet (covered) in the refrigerator until required.

When ready to heat, place in rapidly boiling salted water for approx 3 minutes, remove and serve.

Drizzle with sauce, arrange beet and Parmesan crisps.

Ravioli dough

Combine ingredients into a firm dough. Knead until incorporated, then wrap in plastic bag and place in refrigerator for at least 30 minutes. Remove and allow to come back to kitchen temperature.

Beetroot paste

Chop and simmer the beetroot in a pot until tender. Then blend until smooth and allow to cool.

Filling

Mix ingredients well.

Broccoflower sauce

Place shallots, garlic and cream in a pot over a medium heat and reduce the volume by half.

Cut broccoflower into evenly-sized pieces and finish in the cream sauce. Blend until smooth.

Beetroot chips

Slice fresh beetroot into thin slices and arrange on an oven tray. Place tray in the oven at 100degC-120degC for approx half a day until dry and crisp.

Parmesan crisps

Grate Parmesan in a thin layer on to a silpat/non-stick oven tray. Place under grill until cheese is bubbling and golden. Remove, allow to cool, break and store in an airtight container until required.

 


Making and cooking perfect ravioli

• Good pasta dough will start out firm, but as you continue to work it through the pasta machine it will soften

• Like puff pastry, the more layers you can create, the lighter the dough becomes

• Fresh pasta does not take long to cook, if rolled thin. Don't overcookRavioli is a fine balance in the matter of the correct amount of filling. Use moulds to assist in getting the right amount

• Work small pieces at a time

• When cooking in salty water, don't be tempted to crowd the ravioli, as the water temperature will drop and the pasta will not cook


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