Talking to the locals in Laos is even more rewarding than usual, writes JANICE MURPHY.
The young Australian backpacker was as kind as he was handsome. That is, quite a lot.
Wobbling on a pontoon on the Mekong River at Luang Prabang, in Laos, balancing my suitcase and myself while trying to put on my shoes, I had looked at the steep riverbank with dismay.
Small steps were cut into it until about halfway up to the road far above, where equally steep concrete steps with a handrail began.
After a three-day journey by van and riverboat in the 30degC-plus heat, I was feeling every one of my 60-odd years and for the first time in decades of travel I wished I had brought my backpack. How would I even lug myself up to the top, let alone my luggage?
But ''What's it weigh?'' asked my Aussie mate. Then, barely waiting for an answer, he hoisted the 12kg case and leapt up the steps like a mountain goat. He was gone by the time I hauled myself to the top and I didn't get to thank him properly but his good turn was greatly appreciated.
Luang Prabang, the ancient capital of Laos, had been on my bucket list since I read about the work of Big Brother Mouse, a Lao-owned organisation dedicated to publishing books in the Lao language and getting them out to children and schools in far-flung places around the country.
Big Brother Mouse runs a drop-in conversation group in Luang Prabang where visitors can chat to locals wanting to practise their English and that was where I wanted to go.
My trip had taken me first to Chiang Mai, in Thailand, for a few days, then on a day-long van journey to the border town of Chiang Khong for the night.
Next day I crossed to Huay Xay with a collection of other travellers and we went down to the riverboat for our two-day trip on the Mekong to Luang Prabang.
It did not start well for me. As we climbed aboard, we handed over our luggage and were asked to take off our shoes for the trip. I did so, meanwhile wondering where the bags would go, then turned to walk down the boat to my seat. But while I was not looking, the floorboards had been lifted for the bags to be stowed away, and I fell the mercifully short distance into the hold, landing on my own suitcase.
Apart from that ignominious experience the journey was fairly uneventful, punctuated only by stops to drop off locals on beaches or rocky outcrops - we deposited a pregnant woman, a young girl and another woman with babe in arms on a rock beside the river as rain began to fall - and we arrived at our Pak Beng guesthouse before dark.
However, at dinner time we ate in near-darkness in the thatched restaurant. The lights were switched off because they attracted too many insects upon which the resident geckos feasted, dropping the wings on to our table - and our plates.
Next morning, clutching the packed lunches we had ordered from the guesthouse, off we went on the river again, arriving in Luang Prabang in the afternoon. At the top of the riverbank steps was a queue of tuk-tuk drivers and we tourists were soon on our way into town. The tuk-tuk man dropped me at the top of a street and pointed down to a hotel, allegedly mine.
''That's it on the corner''. So I sweatily dragged my case there only to find it was the wrong place, I was booked into their other location. It was easily sorted. A young man on a 50cc motorbike arrived and took me and my case, which he balanced on the tank, for the short ride.
Next morning I strolled the few blocks to Big Brother Mouse to join in the conversation. Students young and old, school pupils and monks; all were keen to chat and improve their English. One had a list of vocabulary words for me to explain: spay, psychologist, cybercafe. He must have been reading some interesting stuff.
After the morning session I walked with one of the women down by the river to the local library, a busy place which made me sad and happy in equal measure. Sad because it had so few books, happy because it existed and was obviously popular.
Books have not been part of Lao life in the past but the lively little library was a sign of change. I spent two more very enjoyable mornings at Big Brother Mouse, which was a highlight of my trip. If the bright, cheerful and eager participants I met are the future of Laos, the country will be in safe hands.
- Janice Murphy is an Otago Daily Times subeditor.
IF YOU GO
Big Brother Mouse
• A not-for-profit organisation in Laos with the aim of ''making literacy fun'' set up in 2006 to focus on publishing books that improve literacy and quality of life in Laos; and on making those books accessible.
• Runs book parties at rural schools, giving children their own books.
• Sets up reading rooms in villages where there may not have been books before.
• All paid staff and the three owners are from Laos.
YOU CAN HELP
• Donate money to help sponsor a book party.
• Help sponsor a book to be published.
• If you are in Laos, buy books at one of the Big Brother Mouse shops in Luang Prabang or Vientiane, and take them as presents when you go to villages.
In Luang Prabang, help young adults learn English as a conversation volunteer.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
Visit:www.bigbrothermouse.com
ABOUT LUANG PRABANG
Luang Prabang lies at the confluence of the Nam Khan and Mekong rivers about 300km north of Vientiane. Its population is about 50,000.
Until the communist takeover in 1975, the city was the royal capital and seat of government of the Kingdom of Laos. The old town centre is a Unesco World Heritage Site.
