Delhi may seem like it's an ultramodern metropolis, but in reality it's an ensemble of seven historic settlements established by various central Asian conquerors between the 11th and 17th centuries. Sandip Hor reports.
India's capital Delhi is engulfed in centuries of imperialism and the opulent Leela Palace Hotel is a great venue to sense some of that majestic feeling.
With all its architectural grandeur and plush ornamentation, the hotel can aptly claim to be a home of the emperors.
By staying there I am inspired to dig into the city's imperial past.
When seeking guidance on framing a history-driven itinerary, I learn from the hotel's omniscient concierge the ultramodern metropolis we see today boasts an ensemble of seven historic settlements established by various central Asian conquerors between the 11th and 17th centuries.
That's why Delhi is often titled ‘‘City of Cities''.
I start my discovery at the World Heritage-listed complex of Qutb Minar, the only distinctive memoir of the first conurbation, which was established by Afghan warrior Qutbuddin Aibak in 1192 around today's Mehrauli Park.
Boasting a towering 73m-high sandstone monument, it's unquestionably the city's most tourist-infected site.
Awesomely standing among several other ruined headstones, the tower tapers from a 15m diameter at the base to just 2.5m at the top.
It has five distinct storeys, each marked by a projecting balcony.
The first three storeys are made of red sandstone while the fourth and fifth are marble and sandstone.
It's said the monument was built to mark the entry of Islam into the subcontinent.
Delhi's second city was built by Alauddin Khilji in 1303 at a place called Siri, where nothing remains barring some sections of a crumbling rampart and a tomb, dotted within a poorly maintained park used mainly by locals as a romancing hideout or an afternoon resting place.
The third and fourth cities of Tughlaqabad and Jahanpanah are similar to Siri.
Both were built by Tughlaq dynasty rulers, who were well known for their brutalities.
Though I don't see much at any of these sites, other than ruins of citadels, palaces and mosques, I learn a lot about India's history from Rawal, my guide from India Holiday Pvt Ltd, a Delhi-based tour operator.
A shiver runs through my spine when hearing stories about the faithlessness and ferocity of the Tughlaq monarchs, who regularly enslaved and tortured non-believers of Islam, beheading captives one of their daily routines.
Another member of the Tughlaq dynasty built Firozabad about 1351, the fifth city, located across the road from Delhi's main cricket ground.
The most significant exhibit here within the decrepit ramparts and structures is Mauryan King Ashoka's polished stone pillar, which stands as a symbol of pride among Indians.
There are also the ruins of a mosque, where it's said Turco-Mongol conqueror Timur Lang used to come for Friday prayers during his short reign in Delhi.
While browsing through Delhi's imperial leftovers I begin to understand why historians talk of this highly cosmopolitan metropolis as a gritty survivor of conquests and extreme volatility.
Over a period of 400 years the land didn't witness much other than seas of flames and bloodstained stones in every corner, but it endured.
Stability in the political system surfaced in the early 16th century with the arrival of the Mughal conquistadors.
They were direct descendants of Timur Lang and came from present-day Uzbekistan.
Like the Ottomans in Turkey and Tudors in England they are one of the great medieval dynasties, and ruled India for more than three centuries until the British seized power from them.
The sixth and the seventh cities were their creation.
Being great patrons of art and culture, they made Delhi famous by covering the landscape with architectural splendours.
Their legacies are evident throughout modern Delhi.
I feel like ‘‘Walking with the Mughals'' when going past some of them.
Architecturally stunning forts, tombs and monuments and lively bazaars like those seen in Istanbul or Tehran dominate many quarters where thoroughfares bear the names of Mughal emperors.
Akbar Rd and Aurangzeb Rd are two that I remember.
Even a Mughal Garden exists inside the British-built Presidential Palace at Raisina Hill.
About 1553, Humayun, the dynasty's second emperor, built an expansive fortified settlement on the hallowed site of Indraprastha, which was home of the legendary Pandava kings from the 3rd-century mythical epic Mahabharata.
It's now called Purana Qila (Old Fort).
Withstanding centuries of sun and rain, a large section of the sandstone citadel along with towering walls, flamboyant arches and domes and dramatic gateways still stands in perfect condition, testifying to the architectural brilliance of the time.
The manicured land inside is studded with exquisite structures, a mosque and a library drawing attention.
Humayun died falling down the stairs of this two-storey library building, where he spent time praying and reading the Koran.
His tomb located nearby is an architectural marvel, and a must see for any visitor to Delhi.
The last and grandest of all Delhi cities is Shahjahanabad, which bloomed during the reign of Shah Jahan, the fourth Mughal emperor, who built the wondrous Taj Mahal in Agra.
A colossal wall surrounds the 1638-built settlement, presently known as Old Delhi.
Several imposing gates allowed entry inside.
Three of them, Delhi, Turkman and Ajmeri, still exist.
A graceful and highly cultured lifestyle was then nurtured by the merchants, traders, courtesans, artists and poets living in the lanes and alleyways of the walled quarter.
Drifting there aimlessly grants me a sense of enrichment, while imagining its vibrant and colourful past.
Countless shops and bazaars in Chandni Chowk overflowing with crowds, chaos and cacophony remind me of the central Asian souk-like atmosphere.
The centrepiece of Shahjahanabad is its massive bastion, popularly known as the Red Fort, which stands as a silent witness of many episodes that fill the pages of Indian history.
It was the residence of the Mughal emperors until 1857.
Its ornamented halls and paved yards are open to the public, as much of the fort area is still in use by the current Indian army.
The view of this red-sandstone complex is a photographer's delight when captured from nearby Jama Masjid, which is another well-preserved icon from that era.
The misty air of Shahjahanabad is flavoured by the irresistible aroma of Mughlai food.
I visit Karim's, one of Delhi's oldest and most authentic eateries for sampling recipes that slipped from the kitchens of the Mughals.
While sampling mouthwatering kababs, biriyani and korma, ‘‘Walking with the Mughals'' ends up for me in a gastronomically enjoyable fashion as ‘‘Eating like the Mughals''.
Travel notebook
Getting there: Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com) flies daily from Auckland and Christchurch to Delhi via Singapore
Accommodation: Leela Palace Hotel(www.the leela.com), a member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts.
Local tour operator: India Holiday Pvt Ltd (www.indiaholiday.com)
