Medieval magic

Performers parade through Obidos during its annual medieval fair. Pam Jones discovers it’s hot...
Performers parade through Obidos during its annual medieval fair. Pam Jones discovers it’s hot work following in the footsteps of royalty as she explores the Portuguese walled castle town of Obidos.
Tourists walk atop the castle wall surrounding the town.  PHOTOS: ALEX VILELA/PAM JONES
Tourists walk atop the castle wall surrounding the town. PHOTOS: ALEX VILELA/PAM JONES
A costumed Sarah Vilela treads in the footsteps of royalty in the walled castle town of Obidos.
A costumed Sarah Vilela treads in the footsteps of royalty in the walled castle town of Obidos.
Blue-rimmed whitewash decorates buildings and walls in Obidos.
Blue-rimmed whitewash decorates buildings and walls in Obidos.
A castle wall greets visitors to Obidos, in Portugal.
A castle wall greets visitors to Obidos, in Portugal.
Pottery jugs and plates serve up sangria and sausage at Obidos’ medieval fair.
Pottery jugs and plates serve up sangria and sausage at Obidos’ medieval fair.
Pottery jugs and plates serve up sangria and sausage at Obidos’ medieval fair.
Pottery jugs and plates serve up sangria and sausage at Obidos’ medieval fair.
Baskets of port and ginja (morello cherry liqueur) sit for sale outside a store in Obidos.
Baskets of port and ginja (morello cherry liqueur) sit for sale outside a store in Obidos.
Crowds wander the cobblestoned streets of Obidos during its annual medieval fair.
Crowds wander the cobblestoned streets of Obidos during its annual medieval fair.

Pam Jones discovers it's hot work following in the footsteps of royalty as she explores the Portuguese walled castle town of Obidos.

So you're about to get married in medieval Portugal and your (royal) husband-to-be is considering his wedding gift to you.

A parchment poem or illuminated manuscript? A ship to travel the rugged seas? A snazzy gilded cup?

None of that cut it for King Dinis of Portugal in the 13th century, who decided on nothing less than an entire medieval village for his adored Queen Isabel de Aragon, who was presented with the walled castle town of Obidos upon their betrothal. It was regifted to subsequent queens by their kings, and the modern-day village doesn't let you forget it.

Everywhere are cute cobblestoned streets, romantic restaurants and images so charming it's like you've stepped on to a medieval movie set, where every detail convinces you you're actually in the Middle Ages, with appropriate music, pottery wares and rich, frothy ale.

Because Obidos doesn't put a foot out of place.

Sure, there are lots of tourists here. But there is always a quiet bar, a near-deserted street or a still church somewhere for you to retreat and find yourself, side-stepping the madding crowds to revel in the beauty of this crazy-pretty town.

Want to feast on rustic fare, then rest your head beneath a castle wall?

All of Obidos is encircled by a castle wall, so anywhere you dine or sleep will be magic, often against a backdrop of real-life minstrels and troubadors.

Feel like a little tipple of something a bit different, some smooth liquor to ease your soul?

Well, don't go past Obidos' masterful morello cherry liqueur, "ginja'', perfection in a glass, sometimes made all the sweeter by being served in an edible chocolate cup!

Or fancy pretending you're a queen as you wander the streets in suitably royal robes?

Obidos can do that too, providing medieval costume hire for anyone keen (or foolish) enough to take on a royal persona, because in the summertime, it's not a move made lightly.

Medieval types must have been sweating, because my forest-green velvet dress weighs a ton and the robes are hot and heavy as they glide over the pavestones beneath my feet.

But we do feel like royalty. Barely 10m out of the costume hire, my (princess) daughter and I are stopped by tourists who want to photograph this stately couple on a royal meander.

"Hey princess, where's your prince?'' another calls out to my daughter, demure in peach and cream with flowers in her hair while I pull rank in more queenly attire, complete with beaded headpiece.

We tread on the large paved stones in the middle of the cobblestoned streets (legend has it they were laid for the real-life queens, with peasants meant to wander on each side), and our hour-long stroll turns into something of a movie shoot as we are photographed by tourists on every corner. But it's back to reality when we disrobe and return to our normal clothes, although reality in Obidos still takes on a dream-like air.

Walk (carefully) atop its castle wall to see where endless troops tried and sometimes succeeded to take over the hilltop town (Obidos was founded by Celts in about 300BC but later conquered by the Romans, Visigoths and Arabs before the first king of Portugal claimed it in 1148); take stupid amounts of photos of the sultry bougainvillea that falls from flowerpots and balconies; marvel at the hand-painted tiles that feature on various walls and the plain blue-rimmed whitewash that covers the rest; and buy some Portuguese pottery (or a cork wallet or hat) to take home.

It's picture-postcard stuff, and kind of like travelling back in time. Just make sure to grab a cool drink at the end of the day to soothe your royal brow.


 

Obidos
Jugglers, jesters and jousters feature at the medieval fair in Obidos each year and it has to be seen to be believed.It is said to be typical of other medieval festivals held annually around Europe, but for wide-eyed Westerners there is nothing standard about the spectacle held in the walled castle town.Musicians, minstrels and mimes perform flanked by ramparts and turrets, and stallholders in taverned squares provide hearty charcoal barbecue fare such as quail, rabbit, pork, chicken and spicy sausage. In the main market area, anything ‘‘modern'' is covered, so beverages and kegs are disguised in hessian. All food comes on pottery plates and drinks are served in pottery jugs and mugs. All stallholders and performers are in medieval costume.Various handcrafts and wares are sold in market areas, where you will find people making chain mail (interlinked metal rings that form a flexible armour) and selling dried flower garlands (for a maiden's hair) and Moorish jewellery and clothing.
There are demonstrations of things such as falconry, civil and military camp sites and mock battles, and displays of replica assault weapons. Take souvenir photos in medieval stocks, and try to catch one of the displays of jousting knights on horseback.A parade of musicians and other market-goers through town several times a day encapsulates the spirit and history of the village and is an assault on the senses.This year's medieval fair in Obidos will be held from July 14 to August 7, from Thursday to Sunday each week. 


 

 

 

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