Out in the mountain air

Mt Taranaki makes a quick appearance from behind the clouds as we walked along the Kaiauai Track....
Mt Taranaki makes a quick appearance from behind the clouds as we walked along the Kaiauai Track. PHOTOS: SAMUEL WHITE
The Govett-Brewster Art Gallery and Len Lye Centre in New 
...
The Govett-Brewster Art Gallery and Len Lye Centre in New Plymouth is an architectural achievement with its reflective exterior.
The native garden Te Kainga Marire mimics real-life 
New Zealand bush.
The native garden Te Kainga Marire mimics real-life New Zealand bush.
Monica’s Eatery, adjoining the art centre, is a modern and 
...
Monica’s Eatery, adjoining the art centre, is a modern and refreshing cafe renovated to pay tribute to Monica Brewster, one of the founders of the art centre.
Hypnotising and mesmerising structural ‘‘flowers’’ dance and twirl about in Len Lye’s own...
Hypnotising and mesmerising structural ‘‘flowers’’ dance and twirl about in Len Lye’s own dedicated room at the art centre.
A cheeky tui comes to check out the home-grown native New 
Zealand garden Te Kainga Marire.
A cheeky tui comes to check out the home-grown native New Zealand garden Te Kainga Marire.
The Megalodon sculpture suspended at the New Plymouth 
museum.
The Megalodon sculpture suspended at the New Plymouth museum.
Te Kainga Marire is in the middle of suburbia
Te Kainga Marire is in the middle of suburbia
Some of the stunning scenery found on the Kaiauai Track at Mt Taranaki.
Some of the stunning scenery found on the Kaiauai Track at Mt Taranaki.

Besides the picturesque location, New Plymouth is mostly about its art and culture above anything else, Samuel White discovers.

It has been a while since I have hiked through rugged bushland for the taste of crisp mountain air.

But during a mountain-side escape to New Plymouth and the Taranaki region, I found myself reminded of why this country has such an appeal to locals and tourists alike.

Mt Taranaki is at the centre of the region and has many towns and attractions which scatter from its base.

However, while this vast region might sometimes be forgotten about, it is not too hard to find scores of hidden gems.

The region's main centre, New Plymouth, used to be a typical industrial town but has been reinvented in the past two decades and transformed into a hub of culture.

My first impression of the town reminded me of the nation's capital, Wellington, due to the variety of art sculptures scattered here and there.

However, in New Plymouth everything is arranged in a much tidier and organised format.

The impressive number of cafes and shops mirrors the culture of Wellington but without the confusion or condensed streets or twisting one-ways.

A particular favourite cafe of mine was Chaos which mesmerised me with its interesting motorised aeroplane model suspended from the ceiling.

On my first day I was guided to the Govett-Brewster Art Gallery and Len Lye Centre. The original building was opened in February 1970 but the reflective Len Lye Centre was opened only last year.

Dedicated to the modernist artist Len Lye, famous for his experimental film and kinetic art, it is the first art gallery dedicated to a single artist.

The current display, "Emanations: The Art of the Camera-less Photograph'', will be shutting at the start of next month but if you manage to make your way to New Plymouth soon, I strongly recommend heading in for a look of the extraordinary display of abstract photos.

The ways to create an image without a camera are endless, which is why the catalogue of "photos'' on display at the centre is so large. Images of broken cassette tapes, the glowing bud of a flower or even the chemical results of different amounts of bacteria found on street pavements line the walls.

Exploring the multiple levels of the art centre was enticing all on its own without getting lost in the forest of Len Lye's own room which displays his moving structural "flowers''.

Huge metal poles join together as they twirl and dance around to hypnotising music - enough to make me want to go back for that alone.

Monica's Eatery, adjoining the art centre, is a modern and refreshing cafe renovated to pay tribute to Monica Brewster, one of the founders of the art centre.

The cafe, perfectly positioned to receive the sun throughout the day, has an eclectic vibe.

As I found myself out of the town centre, I was surprised by how much Taranaki reminded me of the Catlins with its lush rainforests and bountiful rugged coastline.

It took me a mere 30km drive from the town centre to get to the Mangaoraka Car Park near the base of the 2518m Mt Taranaki.

Adorned in a vibrant cloak of green fur, the mountain top stuns with a luminescent dusting of snow.

There are many adventures to be found on the mountainside, including a quick shimmy down the slopes on skis or a snowboard.

Those interested in thrilling winter sport can check out Manganui Ski Field which is advertised as New Zealand's most accessible ski area.

As much as I would have loved to check out the slopes myself, time would not allow it.

I was treated to a small guided hike across the base of the mountain in search of native birdlife with Nick Brown, of Top Guides.

An interesting fellow, he offered many insightful stories throughout the three-hour hike.

"She's a bit rough,'' he told me. "Not for your average tourist.''

Of course, the average tourist he had found did not wear adequate shoes for some of the muddied pathway.

He was able to elaborate on information, not only about the mountain and area, but also of many journeys he had guided in past. Who knew school children could be so rebellious?

And while the native birds of the area remained elusive ("The bellbird are bloody hard to find. They're smaller and more of a camo-green colour''), the scenic beauty of the mountainside was more than enough to satisfy me.

The trek around the base of the mountain is a joyful, breathtaking ride through stunning and rich topography, complete with a bellowing river bed which swirls down to the coast.

A swing bridge stands as a particular highlight.

Though the trek was short-lived, the combined scenery and peaceful escape was enough to remind me of why I need to spend more time exploring my own backyard.

Back in New Plymouth, where I was to spend most of my time, I found myself settled at a nice hotel ... literally. Nice Hotel, on the corner of Brougham and Vivian Sts, is a flamboyant and eloquently dressed cubby hole.

It appeared to be New Plymouth's own Tardis - bigger on the inside than it looked on the outside.

The decor combines a perfect balance of modern with dustings of Victorian decor.

At the end of the hallway on the second floor was a quaint little study, abundant in books from an age ago, a decanter filled with port and a largely ignored chess board. It is adorable.

Late at night I found myself sitting in the warm bubble overlooking the street below, listening to the classical music on the radio and playing Pokemon on my Nintendo DS.

The bedroom itself was as expected; tidy, clean with all I needed to make myself at home. However, what impressed me was the size of the en suite bathroom. Aside from the library at the end of the hallway, the private Jacuzzi itself is a reason in itself to stay at Nice Hotel.

Twisting and turning around New Plymouth's coastline is the recently developed cycle and walk way.

A great investment and initiative by the local council, the cycleway transforms the suburban coast into a leisurely rollercoaster ride for those who want to get out and see new things.

Even a relaxing stroll can be achieved along the huge concrete pathway which perfectly adjoins the ocean.

With the help of Google voice-directed maps in my ear, I was able to navigate the labyrinth of cycle ways to Te Kainga Marire native garden.

The 2000sq m section was converted by its owners into a native garden in 1977.

Complete with a hunter's hut, cave and tunnel and a fish pond, it is difficult to believe the busy bubble of rich suburban life lies only on the other side of the garden fence.

The bush itself draws in native fauna, such as the cheeky tui and elegant native wood pigeon (kereru).

Everything about it screamed of self-sufficiency, with a small orchard at the back corner of the section and an outdoor bath heated by coal fire and barbecue.

The owner of the lush escape, Velda Poletti, does not usually open her sanctuary during the colder months and for her hospitality I am grateful. We shared an enjoyable discussion over her carefully brewed and strong coffee.

Elegant and stunning, the inner city forest was a treat to behold. I could have been trapped there for hours and not cared.

As I made my way back into town on my bicycle, I was mesmerised by the frothing ocean waves which near dwarfed the cycleway. Thankfully, this was not a terribly stormy day and I was spared an involuntary swim (although, according to newspaper reports I was lucky to have avoided this).

As my trip came to a close, I entered the museum, Puke Ariki, in the heart of the town and next to the coastal cycleway.

With the aid of the STQRY phone app, I was able navigate around the well-designed and structurally interesting museum with the help of Te Radar.

I was most interested in the near 7m-long Megalodon shark sculpture suspended from the ceiling which was constructed to scale from a fossil tooth found in Taranaki.

The museum boasts several interactive displays but one in particular tricked me on the lower level. What I thought was a virtual reality submarine ride, instead turned out to be a juvenile playground attraction.

I found this children's game far more enjoyable than I should care to admit, but in my defence, it was not immediately obvious this was a playground.

If you have a family, rest assured your children can spend a few hours climbing around the submarine.

There is so much more to see in Taranaki than I got to see, , so I am instead left pining for the galleries and attractions outside New Plymouth as well as an even longer hike through the mountainside.

The trip to Taranaki was very peaceful and enjoyable.

The transformation New Plymouth has gone through to market itself as a hot-spot tourist destination is nothing short of remarkable.

The scenery and unexplored richness makes it seem like a place of untapped potential.

And as I sat down during my last day in the airport departure lounge, I had to buy the only cheese roll I have ever seen at a North Island cafe.

I realised then that Taranaki really was really catering for everyone.

Sam White was hosted by Venture Taranaki Trust and Air New Zealand

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