New dyeing process makes wool 'sexy'

State science company AgResearch says it will commercialise a wool dyeing process which allows vibrant colouring of wool fabrics and could potentially earn millions of dollars.

The process, developed by AgResearch's textile science team at Lincoln under the leadership of Dr Stewart Collie, allows for much more flexible marketing of garments.

"It makes wool look and feel sexy," he said last week.

"It's a world away from Fred Dagg's prickly black singlets, and helps bring brightly coloured dyed wool fashion into the 21st century. Judging by the response of New Zealand fashion designers, there's a great deal of interest in manufacturing patterned wool garments using this technology."

The process can be used on a range of fabric weights for products which are lightweight and machine washable.

Manufacturers and fashion designers liked to be able to choose colours and designs just before entering the market, thus avoiding risk.

AgResearch has signed a deal with Wellington company BGI Developments which it hopes will lead to the large-scale manufacture of multi-coloured fine merino wool fabrics, in this country and overseas.

BGI Developments will be working with manufacturers to commercialise the new fine wool fabrics, bringing them to fashion houses around the world.

"These products are a world first in textile and fashion development, and an excellent example of how technology can enhance New Zealand's exports," said BGI director Robyn George-Neich, of Lyall Bay, who owns half the company with fellow director Brent Gregory, of Christchurch.

"The new colouring process developed by AgResearch means that patterns and graphics are dyed in the fabric, not just printed on top," she said.

The fabric looked and felt better than standard printed fabric, and the pattern did not deteriorate over time.

The technology would become the "new norm", she said.