'I believe he climbed the mountain'

Who was first? William Gilbert Mouat may have been the first man to climb Mt Aspiring, making the...
Who was first? William Gilbert Mouat may have been the first man to climb Mt Aspiring, making the ascent with a companion in 1882, according to family.
The Department of Conservation's claim Major Bernard Head and his two New Zealand guides - Jack Clarke and Alec Graham - were the first to ascend Mt Aspiring 100 years ago has been challenged by Dunedin man Michael Broad, who says his relative did it 27 years earlier.

Mr Broad (80) contacted Doc after reading Otago Daily Times articles about last weekend's Mt Aspiring centenary celebrations and offered information about his great-uncle William Gilbert Mouat's ascent on March 17, 1882, with companion Tom Mantell.

Doc's Wanaka area manager Paul Hellebrekers is now calling for more information to clarify Mr Broad's claim.

"It is a really intriguing account and one that Doc would like to follow up on.

We are looking for any details relating to it and hopefully other information may come to light as a result of media coverage," Mr Helle-brekers said yesterday.

"This account in no way lessens the remarkable achievement of Bernard Head and his party back in 1909 and it will remain the first certified ascent of the mountain, at this time," he said.

Mr Broad is keen to have his great-uncle's climb recognised.

"For years, I don't know how many - before emails - I used to write to mountaineers to try and find someone to take interest. But no-one was concerned," Mr Broad said.

Gilbert Mouat was born in Purakaunui in 1833, making him 18 when the reported ascent took place.

He died in Devonport in 1956.

Mr Broad said he was given a typewritten account of his great-uncle Gilbert's memoirs by a second cousin, Nicky Taylor.

The typewritten transcript is believed to be a first copy of an earlier handwritten memoir.

Mr Broad does not know where the original document is.

The Hocken Library has the typewritten document, he said.

Mr Broad has retyped the memoir into his computer and made some amendments and corrections.

Mr Mouat's memoir, as reported by Mr Broad, describes a mission with Tom Mantell to fix a trig on the top of Mt Aspiring on March 17, 1882.

They had fine weather and took a light pole each, a small pick and a length of rope.

They took a northwest ridge and experienced considerable difficulty in the frozen snow.

They were novices at ice climbing, so were roped together and went carefully.

They reached the summit at noon, where they enjoyed the view and built a cairn next to which they buried a bottle containing their names on paper.

Mr Broad believes Gilbert's wife Mary, a conchologist (shell collector) and explorer, could have penned her husband's memoirs, as she enjoyed writing.

Mr Broad was 17 when he first met Gilbert Mouat, in 1947, and was instantly taken by his stories and his aura.

He acquired the draft memoir, titled "Devonport Ahoy!", much later.

"He had no need to embellish or impress; therefore I totally believe that he climbed the mountain," Mr Broad said of his great-uncle.

Mr Broad said he knew nothing about Tom Mantell, the partner in Mr Mouat's climb, and had not been able to trace him.

William Gilbert Mouat, known as Gilbert, was the grandson of Motoitoi (Ngai Tahu) and Richard Driver, Otago Harbour's first pilot.

Motoitoi's daughter Maria Mouat was Gilbert's mother and Mr Broad's great-grandmother.

Gilbert was variously a goldminer and a surveyor.

He married Mary Foord, the daughter of an engineer who worked on the Bullendale scheme near Skippers Canyon.

marjorie.cook@odt.co.nz

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