Tall and tan and young and ... chunky?
The Girl From Ipanema has put on a few pounds, and for many
sunbathers on Brazil's beaches the country's iconic
itsy-bitsy, teeny-weeny bikini just doesn't suffice anymore.
A growing number of bikini manufacturers have woken up to
Brazil's thickening waistline and are reaching out to the
ever-expanding ranks of heavy women with new plus-size lines.
That's nothing short of a revolution in this most
body-conscious of nations, where overweight ladies long had
little choice but to hit the beach in comely ensembles of
oversized T-shirts and biker shorts.
"It used to be bikinis were only in tiny sizes that only
skinny girls could fit into. But not everyone is built like a
model," said Elisangela Inez Soares as she sunbathed on
Copacabana beach, her oiled-up curves packed into a black
size 12 bikini.
"Finally, it seems like people are beginning to realize that
we're not all Gisele," said the 38-year-old mother of four,
referring to willowy Brazilian supermodel Gisele Bundchen.
Clothing designer Clarice Rebelatto said her own
swimwear-hunting travails prompted her to found Lehona, an
exclusively plus-size beachwear line.
"Honestly, the problem went way beyond just bikinis. In
Brazil, it used to be that if you were even a little chunky,
finding any kind of clothes in the right size was a real
problem," said Rebelatto, herself a size 10. "And I thought,
'I'm actually not even that big compared to a lot of women
out there, so if I have problems, what are they doing?'"
Since its launch in 2010, the line has become a hit.
In brash leopard spots and flower prints not meant for
wallflowers, the label's 14 bikini styles aren't what you'd
normally associate with plus-size swimsuits. The necklines
plunge dramatically. Straps are mere strings. And while the
bottoms provide too much coverage to qualify for the famed
"fio dental" or "dental floss" category of Brazilian string
bikinis, they're significantly more audacious than the
standard US cut.
"We're working from the principle that bigger women are just
like everyone else: they don't want to look like old ladies,
wearing these very modest, very covering swimsuits in just
black," said Luiz Rebelatto, Clarice's son and director of
Lehona.
He said that recent publicity of the brand and several other
new swimwear lines catering to plus sizes has triggered an
overwhelming number of calls and e-mails from would-be
customers.
"They're all excited and they say, 'I've been looking
everywhere for a bikini like that. Where can I get one?'"
said Rebelatto.
Lehona is currently sold exclusively at big and tall
specialty stores throughout Brazil. Its bikinis retail for
about 130 reais or $US75 - a relatively high price-point
here, but Rebelatto said sales have grown at a galloping
pace, though he did not provide any figures.
It's the same story at Acqua Rosa, a conventional swimwear
label that added a plus-size line in 2008. Now, plus-size
purchases account for more than 70 percent of the brand's
total sales, said director Joao Macedo.
It makes sense.
For centuries, large swaths of Brazil were beset by
malnutrition, and in 1970, nearly 10 percent of the
population in the country's poor, rural northeast region was
considered underweight, according to Brazil's national
statistics institute.
But the phenomenal economic boom that has lifted tens of
millions out of poverty and into the burgeoning middle class
over the past decade has also changed the nation's
once-svelte physique: a 2010 study by the statistics
institute showed that 48 percent of adult women and 50
percent of men are now overweight. In 1985 those figures were
29 percent for women and 18 percent for men.
(Still, there's been no rash of plus-size male swimwear
lines, as men here wear Speedo-style suits that don't impinge
on big guts.)
Analysts attribute Brazil's rapidly widening girth to changes
in nutrition, with chips, processed meats and sugary soft
drinks replacing staples like rice, beans and vegetables.
And while the country's elite are widely known to be fitness
freaks - and also among the world's top consumers of cosmetic
surgery - those recently lifted out of poverty and manual
labor are becoming increasingly sedentary. A 2008 study
showed that barely 10 percent of Brazilian teens and adults
exercise regularly.
Still, despite their growing numbers, not everyone is eager
to embrace "gordinhas" - or "little fatties," as chunky women
are affectionately known here.
Many high-end bikini-makers have turned a seemingly
deliberately blind eye to the burgeoning plus-size market.
Rio-based upmarket brand Salinas, for example, offers five
sizes, from extra-small through extra-large. But their sizing
runs notoriously small and it's hard to imagine anyone over a
size 6 actually managing to fit into any of the brand's
minuscule two-pieces.
Luis Rebelatto of Lehona chalked it partially up to snobbery.
"Some brands, they don't want their image to be associated
with chunky women," he said. "Only the thin, the rich and the
chic."
While Brazilians' increasing heft is a public policy
preoccupation for the government, growth in the ranks of the
overweight population has given them increased visibility in
Brazilian society. Extra-wide bucket seats for the obese have
been installed in Sao Paulo's metro system, and on Sunday the
city will host Brazil's first ever Miss Plus Size beauty
contest.
"It used to be that people would stare at me," said Soares,
the voluptuous sun-worshiper on Copacabana beach. "Now when I
come to the beach I see women who are much bigger than me -
and lots of them are wearing bikinis - so I'm not self
conscious any more.
"God makes some people thin but he made me like this," she
said, rubbing down the well-oiled bulge of her stomach and
thighs. "So who am I to think that he was wrong?"
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