A performer wears a traditional costume as he takes part in
the opening ceremony of the Mayan Culture Festival in
Merida. According to organisers, the aim of the festival is
to honor Mayan culture and to promote inter-cultural
dialogue, in addition to helping the public better
understand the end of the Mayan Long Count calendar, which
expires on December 21. Photo by Reuters.
A few words by an American scholar, a crumbling Mexican
monument and the love of a good yarn were all it took to spawn
the belief that the world could end this week.
December 21 marks the end of an age in a 5125 year-old Maya
calendar, an event that is variously interpreted as the end
of days, the start of a new era or just a good excuse for a
Thousands of New Age mystics, spiritual adventurers and canny
businessmen are converging on ancient ruins in southern
Mexico and Guatemala to find out what will happen.
"No one knows what it will look like on the other side," said
Michael DiMartino, 46, a long-haired American who is
organising one of the biggest December 21 celebrations at the
Maya temple site of Chichen Itza on the Yucatan peninsula.
It is not the world but "the way we perceive it" that will
end, said DiMartino, who pledged his event at ground zero for
2012 acolytes will be a "distilling down of various
perspectives into a unified intention for positive
transformation, evolution and co-creation of a new way of
A mash-up of academic speculation and existential angst
seasoned with elements from several world religions, the 2012
phenomenon has been fueled by Hollywood movies and computer
games, and relentlessly disseminated by Internet
Mass hysteria in a Russian prison, a Chinese man building
survival pods for doomsday and UFO lovers seeking refuge with
aliens in a French mountain village are just some of the
reports that have sprung up in the final countdown to
Robert Bast, a New Zealander living in Melbourne who wrote a
book called Survive 2012 on how to cope with the
possible catastrophe, believes the Maya may have sent out a
"The most likely thing for me is a solar storm, but that's
not going to kill you straight away. It's more of a long term
disaster," said Bast, 47, noting a flu pandemic could also
strike the planet.
"I feel the world isn't as safe as we think it is. The last
couple of generations have had it very cosy."
When dawn breaks on Friday, according to the Maya Long Count
calendar, it marks the end of the 13th bak'tun - an epoch
lasting some 400 years - and the beginning of the 14th.
This fact would probably have languished in academic
obscurity had not a young Maya expert named Michael Coe
written in the 1960s that to the ancient Mesoamerican culture
the date could herald an "Armageddon" to cleanse humanity.
Since then, the cult of 2012 has snowballed.
Among the sun-bleached pyramids, shaded mangroves and deep
cenotes of the Maya heartland, there are hopes Dec. 21 will
bring a spiritual re-birth.
Nobody seems quite sure what to expect on Friday, but it has
not stopped people getting their hopes up.
"This is the Arab Spring of the spiritual movement," said
Geoffrey Ocean Dreyer, a 52-year-old U.S. musician wearing a
sombrero and mardi gras beads. "We're going to create world
peace. We're going to Jerusalem and we're going to rebuild
The words of Coe, a highly respected Maya scholar, were
published in 1966 at the height of the Cold War, stirring
fears in a world haunted by the prospect of nuclear
Coe could not be reached for comment for this article, but
friends and academics who know him insist he never meant to
inspire a vision of apocalypse when he committed them to
Stephen Houston, a Maya expert at Brown University in Rhode
Island and student of Coe's, said too much has been read into
the end of the 13th bak'tun, which was little more than a
"dull mathematical declaration" used to bracket dates.
"I see it all as an expression of present day anxiety and not
much more than that," Houston said.
Few remaining inscriptions refer to the event, and the best
known one is part of a monument recovered from a Maya site in
Tabasco state called Tortuguero - much of which was torn down
in the 1960s to make way for the construction of a cement
Still, the mix of religion, ancient inscriptions and
media-driven speculation about impending doom remains potent.
"I got an email the other day from a mother who was
contemplating taking her own life, because she didn't know
what was really going to happen, she didn't want her children
to live through this ordeal," said David Stuart, a Maya
expert at the University of Texas.
"We can dismiss it as a kooky idea, which it is, but they're
still ideas and they still have power."
U.S. space agency NASA has sought to allay fears of impending
catastrophe, noting that "our planet has been getting along
just fine for more than 4 billion years, and credible
scientists worldwide know of no threat associated with 2012."
Nothing has given the 2012 theories more oxygen in the run-up
to the big day than the Internet, noted John Hoopes, a Maya
anthropologist at the University of Kansas.
"Computers come straight out of the same people who were
smoking pot and protesting at Berkeley and Stanford," he
said, referring to U.S. student movements in the 1960s.
"This Maya calendar stuff has been part of hacktivism lore
for 40 years, since the beginning, and with every significant
change in computer technology, it's gotten another boost."
Many of those gathering in Chichen Itza praised the Internet
as a discussion forum and organizing tool for New Age events.
"We don't need leaders now we have the Internet," said Muggy
Burton, 66, who had traveled to Mexico from Canada with her
15-year-old, blue-haired granddaughter, Talis Hardy.
The two, who communicate with each other by whistling, plan
to live in Mexico for six months, according to Burton, who is
going to homeschool Hardy. "It's the end of the world for
her, and the beginning of a new one," she added.
Mexico's federal government is not officially marking the
phenomenon, but the country's tourism agency has launched a
"Mundo Maya 2012" website with a countdown to December 21.
Up to 200,000 people are expected to descend on Chichen Itza
alone for the night of December 20.
Among modern descendants of the Maya, the idea it could all
come to an end on Friday generally raises a wry smile - but
they are happy to play along if it makes money.
"It's a psychic epidemic," said Miguel Coral, 56, a cigar
salesman in Merida, a colonial town and capital of Yucatan
state. "It's all about business, but that's fine. It helps
our country. I think it's excellent we've exported this
Nearby, workers built a pyramid of spray-painted polystyrene
blocks for the opening of the town's Maya festival.
"If people who believe in this joke want to come, let them,"
said Jose May, a Merida tourism official of Maya descent.
"Nobody here believes that. Those people were sold an idea."
Hazy rumors have helped feed the sense of anticipation.
A few hours' drive south of Merida in the remote Maya town of
Xul, which means "the end," media reports began circulating
as early as 2008 that a group of Italians were readying
themselves for impending doom by building apocalypse-proof
Today, the settlement dubbed the "end of the world resort" is
open for business as "Eco Spa Las Aguilas."
"There's no truth in it," said deputy manager Andrea Podesta,
45, referring to speculation it was a cult.
"Some people came here, took some hidden photos, and
published some very unpleasant articles about us," he added,
noting the glistening new spa was booked up well into 2013.
Inside, a group of elderly Italians, mostly dressed in white,
were watching the path of an asteroid on a giant screen. A
black-and-white image of Christ's face hung from the wall and
a large stone statue of a robed woman greeted visitors.
Whatever lies in store for the planet, even Maya academics
who have fought to play down the hype surrounding the passing
of another 24 hours feel there could still be some surprises.
"I think there may be some mischief on December 21 because
the whole world is watching," said Hoopes in Kansas, citing
rumours hacktivist group Anonymous was planning a stunt.
"It's a very fertile opportunity for a tremendous prank."