Skirts are creating their own fashion story this winter, with styles showing distinctive nuances of the past. Jude Hathaway reports.
Women's skirt styles have woven a fascinating story over the past 100-odd years, reaching back to the time of the restrictive crinoline, bustle and hobble designs of the late 19th and early 20th centuries and it is through these past decades that influences of this season's styles can be glimpsed.
As with all fashion, skirt shapes and lengths have constantly adapted to political and social mores.
Take, for instance, the story of the hobble skirt introduced by Henry Poiret in 1908 to get rid of French women's billowing petticoats and restrictive corsets.
However, because the design brought hemlines in tightly at the ankles women remained restricted by having to mince along, rather than striding out as the A-line skirts - petticoats and all - had allowed!
But, the hobble, which had also brought home to many a strong reminder that women had ankles, calves and shapely bottoms, remained popular until 1914 and the outbreak of World War 1.
With the war came fabric restrictions and reduced manpower to Paris.
In France and America alike, the hobble skirt did not seem to fit the new atmosphere of all hands to the pump, strict economy, and serious times and the style was slowly discarded.
Since then the skirt has seen many metamorphoses, from the asymmetrical and Coco Chanel-influenced shorter styles of the 1920s to those that were pleated and knee-length in the 1930s.
This was also the decade when culottes, targeting women who wanted further freedom of movement, became a sought-after fashion item for the first time - one that would reappear in the 1980s and again in the past couple of seasons.
Little changed in the years through to the end of World War 2 in 1945.
However, by the late 1940s, as well as Chanel, another strong influence on skirt fashion was fellow French designer Christian Dior, one of the major ''shapeshifters'' of the century.
In came his Corolle line of 1947, in defiance of war rationing.
Sumptuous full skirts were supported by stiffened petticoats and very likely were an inspiration for the full circular rock 'n' roll and jive skirts of the 1950s.
Then along came - in yet another bold move - his mid-calf pencil skirts of the 1950s.
But also entering fashion at that time was British designer Mary Quant, who, by the mid-'50s had begun offering a fresh new look for the baby-boomers at her London boutique, Bazaar.
This led the way into the '60s with her youthful mini-skirts and mid-thigh shift dresses that became a look followed by many other of her counterparts.
Next up was the flare-obsessed 1970s, which saw the introduction of short A-line skirts from just-above-the-knee styles to minis.
This winter, one style that has made an impact is the midi skirt, its hemline hovering at mid-calf in styles from narrow, figure-hugging knit tubes to pencil styles.
A shorter below-knee height is also coming in strongly in box-pleated, flared, straight and A-line designs.
But those fashion enthusiasts who may be experiencing some deja vu can be assured this winter's selections are a whole new exciting take on past styles that also convey a compelling look in to the future.
Skirts for all shapes and sizes
For those who enjoy enjoy wearing skirts for their versatility, their ability to be dressed up or down for the occasion and the refreshing change they bring from wearing a dress, here are some tips on which style will suit them best.
SLIM-LINE PENCIL SKIRTS
A well-fitted pencil skirt, whether at knee or midi-length is great for an hourglass figure because it emphasises the waist and flows smoothly over the hips.
A-LINE SKIRTS
Those who have larger thighs and hips in relation to their waist - a typical pear-shape - will look fabulous in the A-line skirts of the season whether they are gored, gathered off a deep band, made from just two or three panels or are knee or calf-length.
MIDI AND MAXI SKIRTS
Anyone can wear a midi or maxi-length skirt as long as the particular style suits their figure. Incidentally, both lengths face the cold of a Southern winter head on as they are stylish whether teamed with tights and sturdy shoes or high boots.
MINI SKIRTS
For a slimline figure with little shape and no curves, the mini-skirt is ideal in that it creates shape at the waist and its short length emphasises long, slim legs.
