Sauvignon blanc comprises the lion’s share of our wine exports and it’s fair to say the stereotypical fresh, zesty, fruity style is what our markets have come to know and love.
It would be commercial suicide to make wholesale changes to our large volume brands, but there is room to push the envelope with smaller labels.
A number of today’s wines show that point of difference with the deft use of barrel fermentation/maturation and lees stirring adding to the textural impact.
2022 Astrolabe Kekerengu Coast Sauvignon Blanc
Rating Excellent
Powerful nose of pea-
pod and green bean,
citrus, feijoa, a little
sweat and gooseberry
with time. Quite
engaging. Starts off
creamily rich in the
mouth before the racy
acidity rushes in.
Lemony notes to the
forefront, joined by
green herb and pea-
pod while some tangy
chewiness adds to
the palate interest.
Fruit sweetness yet a
nicely dry close.
2021 Carrick Organic Bannockburn Sauvignon Blanc
Rating Very Good to Excellent
This takes a different
path with its bonfire
smoke, bramble,
flecks of wildness and
growing perfume. A
delightful vibrancy in
the mouth, dancing
between green bean
and lemon verbena,
crushed leaf with time,
some chalkiness
adding to the textural
impact. Zesty, fresh,
fun for its difference,
balancing fruit
sweetness and
raciness. Draws me in.
2022 Astrolabe Awatere Valley Sauvignon Blanc
Rating Excellent
Sweet herbs and
leafy notes, a wisp of
pea-pod and
passionfruit. That
passionfruit jumps
out on the palate, ripe
gooseberry too, that
sweet fruit lending an
almost honeyed
element yet this
remains nicely fresh
and crisp. A good
backbone of acidity
keeps this vibrant,
closing on a pea-pod
note. Nicely
composed and in the
slot to enjoy.
2021 Astrolabe Taihoa Sauvignon Blanc
Rating Very Good to Excellent
A fleeting waft of
banana skin,
perfumed oak
seasoning, peach,
ripe stonefruits, a
smoky nuance.
Powerful palate, ripe
gooseberry, fresh
peas, mandarin citrus,
silky mouthfeel, quite
weighty. Sweetly
fruited and a dry
honey note on the
close, but this finishes
dry with an almost
tingly quality provided
by the acidity. Full of
flavour.
2022 Mora Pisa Sauvignon Blanc
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Fruit jubes,
passionfruit,
stonefruits, quite
perfumed, with a
stony/mineral quality
evolving. Powerful in
the mouth, melding
the fruit sweetness
with green herb/
grassiness, red apple
and dry honey while
a deep vein of acidity
gives a zesty, citrusy
quality. Honey on
river stones. Tangy
close, real drive,
excellent length and
carry.
2021 Jules Taylor OTQ Single Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc
Rating Excellent to Outstanding
Lemon verbena, fruit
pastille, smoke,
gentlest oak scents/
toffee, a stony,
gravelly element. Rich
and full without being
sweet, the citrus
characters leading the
way, almondy/nutty
notes, ripe green
capsicum and a wisp
of caramel. Quite
mouth-filling, a quiet
power to this, with a
long attractive close.
Brimming with
flavour.
