Summit Explorers co-owner Thomas Vialletet died with a client on Monday night while climbing in a four-person team.
The climbers were in a party of four, roped together in pairs, climbing from Empress Hut to the summit when the two fell from the mountain's west ridge.
Vialletet's business profile says he grew up in the French Alps where he has been climbing, skiing and exploring mountains for over two decades.
"His quest for mountain adventures brought him to New Zealand and he immediately fell in love with the wilderness of this country."
Vialletet was a climbing instructor before becoming a full IFMGA Mountain and Ski Guide and was also part of the French National Young Alpinism Team between 2009 and 2012.
NZMGA president Anna Keeling said the guide, who was a member of their organisation, was "careful and diligent", and had been guiding for at least 12 years.
She said he was married with two young children.
She said the guide last climbed Aoraki / Mt Cook just two weeks ago, "via the quite difficult East Ridge".
"He was very qualified to be up there and knew the route well and knew the conditions well this year. So it's very shocking."
Head torches used to find survivors
The head torches from the two survivors of an ill-fated climbing trip helped guide a Dunedin helicopter rescue team to their location in the middle of the night so they could be flown to safety.
The team was called to Aoraki / Mt Cook on Tuesday night after two of the four people attempting to summit the mountain fell to their deaths.
Helicopters Otago pilot Andy Craig, of Dunedin, said they located the two climbers near the summit using night-vision goggles.
They saw the bright light from their headlamps and were able to pinpoint their exact location.
The team already had a good idea where the climbers were as they had set off a personal locater beacon.
After winching them to safety at 2.15am, Mr Craig headed to the Department of Conservation rescue headquarters in Mt Cook Village.
The New Zealand Mountain Guides Association (NZMGA) said the party — two guides and two clients — were completing a grand traverse of the mountain.
"One climber was seen sliding off the ridge, down the western side of Aoraki and then pulled the second climber, who was attached by a rope, off that same side," Search and Rescue pilot Nigel Gee told 1News.
"They both slipped and went possibly about a 1500-foot [460m] slide."
Their bodies were found about 4.30am and had since been recovered with Doc’s help.
Canterbury Aoraki area commander Inspector Vicki Walker said police were in the process of contacting the next of kin.
"Until that process has been completed we won't be releasing any further information."
NZMGA president Anna Keeling said the guide, who was yet to be formally named by police, was a respected and valued member of the organisation’s community .
Police said they were made aware of the incident on the mountain about 11.20pm.
Two helicopters were sent. One from Queenstown flew to Wānaka and picked up the Aoraki Doc search and rescue team, while the one from Dunedin flew directly to the mountain and began searching.
Alpine cliff rescue specialists were on board.
Aoraki/Mt Cook is New Zealand's highest peak at 3724m.
